Eventually I gave up on my toiles. I got to the point on my second toile where every time I tweaked in one direction, somewhere else looked a lot worse. Construction was fairly straightforward.
My overall impression when I finished the jacket was that I had chosen an inappropriate fabric. The photo of the jacket on the hanger is of the finished jacket, pressed to within an inch of its life. You can see that the fabric does not hold a crease, and that the jacket looks boofy and horrible. The fabric is a poly/viscose/linen, was $22 per m from a good fabric shop, and I was assured that it was suitable for this pattern. I was not very happy at this point.
My rescue techniques were first to topstitch the collar, lapels and edges of the peplum and sleeves. This helped a lot. I used a heavy weight topstitching thread in a dark camel colour, using an 80 needle. I then tacked the lapels to the jacket, so that they would sit properly, and this also improved the situation. I hand stitched the bottom of the lapels so that they turned outward properly. Overall the jacket progressed from wadder, to only moderately disappointing.
I have bought some lightweight melton wool for my next attempt.
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