Sunday, 10 February 2008
construction issues v2925 jacket
Eventually I gave up on my toiles. I got to the point on my second toile where every time I tweaked in one direction, somewhere else looked a lot worse. Construction was fairly straightforward. Essentially I followed the pattern instructions. I was unable to convince my weft interfacing to fuse, so "quilted" this to the facing. I found the sleeve quite difficult to ease into the armhole, and I ended up cutting out both the armhole and sleeve exactly to the pattern, so was a bit surprised by this. I ran 3 rows of easing stitch to help with the sleeve cap, and was reasonably happy with the end result. However, the sleeve cap sagged, so I applied bias binding to the sleeve allowance in the top 1/3 of the armhole, following the instructions in Kathryn's jacket blog (fxdoc posting at artisiansquare.com). This made it sit much better. The photo is taken using my 10 year old daughter as a dress form, so does not give a great impression of the fit. My other construction variations were to use an aide for achieving equal curves on the jacket peplum and the lapels. The photo shows me using a sticker - this was much easier than drawing a curve from an eggcup, which is what I used for the lapels.
My overall impression when I finished the jacket was that I had chosen an inappropriate fabric. The photo of the jacket on the hanger is of the finished jacket, pressed to within an inch of its life. You can see that the fabric does not hold a crease, and that the jacket looks boofy and horrible. The fabric is a poly/viscose/linen, was $22 per m from a good fabric shop, and I was assured that it was suitable for this pattern. I was not very happy at this point.
My rescue techniques were first to topstitch the collar, lapels and edges of the peplum and sleeves. This helped a lot. I used a heavy weight topstitching thread in a dark camel colour, using an 80 needle. I then tacked the lapels to the jacket, so that they would sit properly, and this also improved the situation. I hand stitched the bottom of the lapels so that they turned outward properly. Overall the jacket progressed from wadder, to only moderately disappointing.
I have bought some lightweight melton wool for my next attempt.