Friday, 17 September 2010

How to add a Waistband pocket

RuthieK was interested in hearing more about the waistband pocket in the dark brown BWOF 4-2009-118 work trousers. I have worn these trousers to work twice, and am very pleased with the usefulness of the pocket (keys, mobile phone, pen) and the lack of apparent side hip bulge whilst the pocket is full, so added it to my next pair. (Same pattern, tropical wool, lined with cotton batiste)
I was inspired by the front yoke patterns in BurdaStyle 12-2009-115 . I made 2 pairs of these for my daughter, and one pair for myself (AKA terrible tourist trousers) and the pocket was quite useful. (Also dear readers, you were correct, I did not hate the terrible tourist trousers quite so much after a week or so when the faults stopped their "Isewedititis" glare.)Credit to Mary Nanna for that very useful sewedititis term. I believe I have a chronic case, and have just removed all the self critisism about the wearing wrinkles in my insufficiently interfaced waistband from this post, as I think the comments may be a symptom of this condition. Feel free to add external criticism in the comments!

The current pair of trousers are lined, so I have just pinked the pocket edges. If your trousers are unlined, you will need to finish the edges before you start sewing the pocket.

The pocket front (this can't be seen, so I like to use a print or contrast colour for this bit)is sewn right sides together to the front waist edge of the trouser leg - but inside the seamline. I have sewn at 1/4 of an inch from the edge, as my seamline is at 3/8th of an inch. Do not sew all the way to the edges, just to the seamline of the pocket piece (you can probably see where I unpicked my extra sewing in the photo).

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Press the trouser seam line to the inside.

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Clip the seam allowance of the trouser to the seam line at the pocket vertical seam line, and turn the trouser seam allowance up - except in the pocket section. I did this later, but now would be a more logical time.

Finger press the vertical pocket seam allowance toward the pocket, then sew the waistband piece to the trousers, up to each vertical seam line of the pocket. Press the seam open.

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Sew the pocket back, (same outer fashion fabric)right sides together, to the seam allowance of the waistband, matching the placement to the front pocket piece.

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Press the waistband seam open. Then press the trouser seam allowance up towards the waistband, excluding the pocket section. (The photograph is taken before this second pressing)
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You can see from the photo that I have topstitched the waistband at this point, catching in the seam allowance of the trouser sections on either side of the pocket.

Sew the pocket pieces together. Be careful to keep the waistband and trouser seam allowance free of the outer fabric.
You will need to hand sew the waistband facing across the pocket section, or leave it free here.

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I found that the yoke pockets in the BurdaStyle 12-2009-115 trousers tend to gape during use. I have extended the belt loop to make a tab button closure for the pocket, which restricts this tendency.

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8 comments:

ejvc said...

Thank you! Great tutorial!

Carolyn said...

This is a really clever idea! Thankyou for taking the time to make this very useful tutorial. The extended belt loop/pocket closure is pure genius

RuthieK said...

Thank you! I want to give that a try

BetsyV said...

That is exactly how I added pockets to the Vogue 7881 trousers with contoured waistband! It worked great and I have a place to put my cell phone.

Joy said...

Very neat idea!

fabrickated.com said...

This is such a great design idea, and beautifully explained. I hope to try it out soon. Thank you

fabrickated.com said...

This is such a great design idea, and beautifully explained. I hope to try it out soon. Thank you

fabrickated.com said...

I love pockets and this is a very nice one. It is also very well described. Thank you!