Tuesday, 21 October 2008

Construction notes BWOF 06-2008-118

I am spending far too much time at work this week, cramping my sewing, but I guess it is good to keep the fabric funds trickling in.
I am working very slowly on the Mark #2 6-2008-118 dress from BWOF, as I want to enter this in the cotton competition at pattern review, so no major errors are allowed to creep in, and it is all happening late in the evening or very early in the morning - prime mistake times!
I have made minipiping, using a double thickness of the green voile to prevent the perle cotton filling thread from showing through. I did not pre wash the filling thread, so am trimming each section so that the filling will float freely within the piping, not be sewn through, which might give it the potential to shrink and make the seams pucker.

The fabric is very fine. I reinforced the shoulder seams with selvage trimmings.

I have altered the position of the waistband openings. They are wider by around 3cm, and quite a bit higher. The smocking extends to the original length of the pleating, but finishes well above the hips, so I did not need to unpick any. I am quite happy with the proportions.


I thought a bit about the buttonhole style openings for the sash. On my last attempt, I backed the buttonhole with high count percale sheeting fabric, which was firm without being heavy, but when I pinned this to the new pink voile dress, it showed through. Instead I have used selvage trimmings from the voile to reinforce the buttonhole opening. It does not shadow through to the right side of the fabric, but was not terribly easy to sew. The other one is much more messy, so I am not taking a photograph of it! Fortunately, these buttonholes are not visible in the finished dress.

My next decisions are whether or not to add a contrast border to the hem, and to work out if a petticoat or lining are needed for the skirt.
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