Friday, 20 November 2009

Delayed view of New Look test dress

First the fun part, the details

Brown piping, same button tab instead of hook and eye, cream batiste lining.

Scallop hem on the lining. I used to hate doing these on the girl's dresses, when I was making them fancy toddler clothes, but thought it might be easier on my Janome, now that I have a flash machine. No. I still loathe trimming away all those little concave bits after sewing the scallops. If you see another scallop hem here, it will be done by hand.
I made several dresses from this pattern about 8 years ago, before my son was thought of. I still have one dress from this time, but it does not fit wonderfully across the bust, so I needed a test run. I did not make a full on toile, as my figure has not changed a great deal since my previous use of the pattern.
My fitting changes to the basic pattern already included decreased waist, increased backside and lower armscye. I had also taken in the upper back. However, I vaguely remembered taking a lot of fabric away from the outer shoulder width, and ending up with narrow straps, which I had fixed on the only version remaining, by some convoluted method involving a lot of muttering (Why didn't I write these things down 8 years ago? Blogging has improved my memory). Instead of repeating the muttering, I started with a smaller size at the bodice (10 instead of 12) and made a bigger full bust adjustment.

The pattern is not really ideal for a person of extreme curve, as there are only 2 front and 2 back fitting darts for the waist and hip. However, I chose to put up with this limitation, as I did not want to break up my Japanese print too much with the multiple smaller fitting darts I would normally use. There is a lot of curve going on in the back centre seam due to the lack of fitting darts, so I was patting myself on the back a lot about my pattern matching. It involved basting and chalk. I am hoping the chalk marks come out in the wash, as they are orange and I think may be visible in the photo.

I was pleased that I had made a trial version, as this dress is shorter than I like. My previous dresses were all the ankle length version. Instead of adding a bias binding, I believed my daughters, who felt that it was not a bad length. I can always let it down a smidgeon and put the bias trim on later. Apparently my clothes are too "Old lady" for my teenager. I made the Japanese dress a little longer, as one departure at a time from my conservative style (print) is all I can cope with per outfit. This one is length.

I nearly forgot my cost of materials.
Pattern $0 - multiple use
Thread $6
Lining - cotton batiste from deep stash. I think this is the last of a half roll I bought for $5m at the unfortunate closing of a local fabric shop. -$7.50
Piping - purchased bias binding 50c (bargain 10 lots for $5 sale purchase)DMC perle thread that I included in the cost for the Japanese print dress.
Zip - recycled, $0
Button - recycled - $0
Embroidered linen from Gorgeous Fabrics - I tried to look this up, but the order is older than 18 months, so has fallen off my email history. Looking at similar fabrics on her site, and averaging out the exchange rate and shipping, I think about $AUD 40 for the approximately 1.5m used.

Total material cost $54

Next up is an outfit for each of my daughters to wear to the ballet. We have tickets to see Sleeping Beauty in Brisbane. I will try not to dress like an old lady, if they try not to dress as if they are rollerblading.
Posted by Picasa


ejvc said...

Very pretty! Funny your "trial" is more expensive than the "real" one :-) But I agree with your daughters -- in fact I like the length on this one better. Not that *i* would wear a dress of such a length and change the habit of a lifetime. But it looks very nice on you.

KID, MD said...

Beautiful fit. I think your daughters are on to something - the length is quite flattering. That scalloped hem is a lovely touch.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

This is a beautiful dress! I love the brown piping, the scalloped hem on the lining and the hidden button closure! Simply beautiful!

Karin said...

I think this is a very pretty dress. And it looks great on you!

Gail said...

Perfect dress for the current heatwave! Love the piped neckline.

Ruth said...

Beautiful details on the dress, and it looks great on you.

Vicki said...

I like this one too. And boy you don't look like an old lady!! Beautiful dress and again great lining :) I think the piping really takes it from simple to special.