Saturday, 30 January 2010

Burda World of Fashion 09-2008-126 blouse

. Technical drawing from Burda website
The next blouse for my daughter's wardrobe plan is from the September 08 Burda World of Fashion magazine again. I have made the short sleeve version, but gathered the sleeve instead of pleats, as I have used this short sleeve with pleats or tucks on the last two blouses.
I made a size 36, which meant I had to scale down a size, and shortened the sleeves by about 7cm, as they looked quite dowdy at the original length when gathered. This was a bit of an unpleasant surprise, as the tucked and pleated versions looked fine to us at the pattern length.
You may be able to see in the back view that I did use the elastic gathering at the waist at the back. When I first finished the blouse, and tried it on for placement of the elastic, I did not think the elastic was necessary, as there is not much ease in the blouse. However, my daughter felt that the blouse was too boxy, so we compromised on no front waist gathering, but including the back waist gathering, but well above pants level, as gathering right at the pants waist looked rather messy with the blouse worn tucked in.
The real feature of this blouse is the concealed button placket. I think I did this backwards, but the end result is OK.
I made some construction changes to the blouse. In the magazine, the yoke is unlined.
I chose to line it with white batiste, and used a no-hand-sewing technique gained from making dozens of baby dresses. First you sandwich the back between the yoke and lining.
Then you pin the yoke to the front, right sides together, then twist the yoke lining around the armscye so that you can sandwich the front bodice between the yoke and lining. This gives a neat finish. On a baby dress it also prevents the baby's skin from irritation due to exposed seams.
The only other change I made to the pattern was to use white shirting scraps for the undercollar and inner collar stand. The fashion fabric print showed through, and I did not like this effect.
Materials cost: Pattern - free as magazine previously used
Fabric - left over cotton print (Laura Ashley dress) from Spotlight at $8.99 per metre, about 1.3 m $12
Buttons - recycled
Thread, interfacing $3.


KID, MD said...

Beautiful print! Thanks for sharing that yoke lining technique! I hadn't seen it before.

Little Hunting Creek said...

Pretty blouse - and it lookss great on her

gwensews said...

Cute blouse. You are really sewing up a storm for your daughter.

Joy said...

Another pretty blouse!

I like the clean yoke finish, but I'm trying to wrap my brain around the technique. Do you sandwich the yoke, yoke lining and bodice; stitch bodice & yokes, twist the pieces, then stitch the shoulders? And by "twist", do you mean "turn inside out"?

Anonymous said...

Hm, I always do it by folding under the seam allowances on the inner yoke, basting and edgestitching. This is an interesting way!

A shirt a day! You are slaying me.

angie.a said...

This is beautiful! I had completely forgotten about this top.

RuthieK said...

A beautiful garment, immaculately executed. I love the pieces you do.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I'm going to have to try that yoke technique. Thank you!

Liana said...

That's how I do shirt yokes too, except I learned to stitch the shoulder seams first since they are slightly bias, and the less handling the better. The lower yoke seam is almost always straight grain, so it can take more handling and pulling around before stitching.