Thursday, 23 September 2010

Self Stitched September 23, McCalls 5522

Today I am taking Uta's advice (again) and trying more contrast for my neutrals. The trousers are BWOF 4-2009-118 in the brown version (repeat) and the blouse is new, McCalls 5522, in a pink, brown and cream print that looks neutral (and washed out in all photos) Hmmm. Some clothes are just not photogenic. I quite like this blouse anyway.
SAM_2849
I think the contrast gives me a better outfit. Thanks Uta!

I have made this blouse before (review here)- but for my daughter, which is an entirely different experience. I require considerably more fitting.
This version is my trial of this pattern, which replaces a toile for me when I make a blouse. The fabric is a quilting cotton.

SAM_2820

SAM_2821

Prior to construction I made a square shoulder adjustment, took in the waist, and folded out a small dart in each of the lower back pieces for a sway back adjustment. I also added 1cm vertically to the lower back central panel,tapering to the hem as I had needed to add a gore here for my daughter. I narrowed the collar stand by 1cm, as I had found it too wide for my daughter. This pattern already has separate bodice pieces for different cup sizes, so I did not need to do a FBA.
I fancied some subtle embellishment, so piped the collar stand and button bands. I also made short sleeves from the plain, non gathered long sleeve version.
SAM_2779
Post construction adjustments included:
1.Taking 2cm from the horizontal empire seam at the front, and 3cm at the back. I could probably afford to shorten the pattern a bit more here.
2.Taking in the side seams by 2cm. The ease is generous
3. I would have liked to shorten the blouse slightly, as I do not like it at all when worn tucked in. However, I finished the piped front button band by sewing the facing across the bottom of the band, turning it inside out, then hand sewing both fronts and the collar band of the facing, and I am too lazy to repeat this (and to try mending the bottom buttonhole which would then be in a funny position)
4. I will probably make more of a sway back adjustment for my next version.

15 comments:

RuthieK said...

That's a very pretty blouse! I like it on you and the print just adds a little something.

Uta said...

Very pretty! The fabric is subtly beautiful, and I think it suits you very well. I wish I'd get to the point of adding embellishment instead of just trying to get my blouses sewn already!

ejvc said...

Very pretty blouse and I am in favour of contrast. I do think that when you sew you are seeing things close up so that things read neutral while you see them to be very detailed. Maybe to challenge yourself you can do some big or contrasting embellishments -- like pipe with a dark fabric? (BTW your piping is gorgeous! and on a trial garment! you have mad skills...)

Re the swayback, we are having a discussion on Gertie's coat sewalong blog, and Brocade Goddess, whose sewing I hold in awe, suggests that the swayback tuck interferes with the grain of the pieces and should be replaced by letting out the seams below the waist. Food for thought.

Carolyn said...

This blouse is so pretty and feminine. I'm glad you showed the close-up of the fabric as the print is adorable.

Handmade said...

Cute blouse - a pretty print. You're doing very well with the commitment to SSS.

BeeBee said...

I really like the blouse - and you know how I feel about any BWOF pant. I don't buy many big 4 patterns, but that one is quite pretty and with the FBA built in...

sewing spots said...

Very flattering outfit! I love the blouse.

Karin van D. said...

Great blouse. I love the subtle print, it's lovely!

beurreblanc said...

This is a great outfit. Who said you lacked colour?? I wish I could wear neutrals and softs as well as you..

Sewing Elle

KID, MD said...

It is lovely!! I love this pattern. The print is really beautiful and looks great with those pink pearl buttons.

Mary Nanna said...

Very pretty blouse - I love the piping and that collar stand has come out beautifully - lovely precision sewing!

Mary said...

I am taking a break from blouse fitting issues so I won't even comment on your proposed swayback alteration. Your blouse looks perfect from my monitor :-). I do want to say...I totally admire your handiwork here. The collar is so nice, the piping is perfect, I love the fabric and those buttons!! cute.

McVal said...

Ooh! I like the piping around the collar! Very pretty blouse!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Very cute--I love the little print.

Cennetta said...

Nice outfit. The subtle embellishment makes this blouse special. I'm really into piping these days. Great job.