Sunday, 17 October 2010

Lady Grey: Fitting the sleeve, and distractions Burda 11-2009-134

Next up, the sleeve. In my first toile, the sleeve fit was truly terrible. Fortunately adjusting the shoulder a little more improved the situation, but my immediate reaction to the sleeve in its merely lengthened (10cm), sleeve cap heightened (1.5cm), rotated (2.5cm) and slightly tapered form, was that I had a bit more work to do.
I pinned out a lot of the sleeve width, and made some more alterations - following instructions in Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques book. I took about 2cm off the back curve, and let out the sleeve head by another 1 cm.
I then cut up the sleeve, made a new pattern, and was perplexed to find that the sleeve seemed to be rotating peculiarly from about the biceps.
Fortunately, I had only unpicked this version and re-drafted the sleeve before I realized that I had cleverly sewn in version 3 backwards, and when redrawn according to version 2, and sewn in the right way, version #3B was not too bad, so long as I only looked at the bit above the elbow.
Leaving the question of whether or not to include elbow darts for another day, when I am feeling stronger, I undertook a little light relief.

See, I can sew. Almost instant new pyjamas for a sleepover at Grandma's.
SDC10031 The pattern is from Burda Style 11-2009.
I have used the same top as last years pyjamas, lengthened (#134), but the shorts are a longer version, #132. I feel better now.


RuthieK said...

You are showing great patience with this muslin! I totally relate to the PJ sewing requirement. Is the top a print with musical notes and the short some sort of striped fabric? Its a little hard to see.

Anonymous said...

Oh, Karen! My suggestion about the sleeve rotation is that it is the same issue as happens with trousers when you take them in and the leg rotates -- you have to have made the taper evenly on both seams. Perhaps you did though.

I've done some mending and some hemstitching of linen towels to prove to myself that I can still sew.

Carol said...

I'm super impressed with your persistence!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I am still scarred by the sleeve rotation in my Tuxedo Jacket of Doom. I admire your willingness to tackle this issue.

Livonet Suaqui said...

Hello, I found this post very interesting, I am fitting my sleeve and I realize that when I do the fitting having the capline and biceps line parallel to the floor in the dress form, its not the same when I put on, In the dress form looks straight but when I have it on me the capline is not straight, so which one should I work with? I am also following Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques book and Roberta Carr book. I need help.

kbenco said...

Hello Livonet, I would make sure the line is straight when you are wearing it. It sounds as if you may need to rotate the shoulder slightly. I suggest the critiques board at stitchers guild - if you post photos people can give you specific advice. Good luck