Monday, 30 May 2011

Burda Style 01-2011-107 blouse again

My second version of the Burda Style 01-2011-107 blouse is in lawn, which I feel is a much better fabric choice. Unfortunately, the lawn, which has always been intending to become a work blouse, was a remnant (Goldhawk Rd, London),in an amount a tad less than I required for comfortable cutting out of a blouse in directional fabric. It was also a little off grain, just enought to drive me batty, as the print is geometric.

SDC10126

To deal with both these factors, I added an inset to the button bands - cream linen. This means that I do not have to look at off kilter squares failing to meet each other as I button my blouse. I also made the button bands a little wider so that an ordinairy shirt button can have a horizontal button hole, rather than vertical as in the previous blouse. I do not trust vertical buttonholes under horizontal strain. (The linen is a scrap left over from my cream linen trousers so that I can be matchy-matchy in another outfit). I have topstitched the linen joining seam with a dark brown embroidery stitch, but have failed to have my photographer take a close up so unfortunately this is decoration is not visible in my photograph.

My pattern changes this time around were to re-shrink the sleeve to nearly its former dimensions ( other than a little width remaining to allow for my square shoulder ajustment). I rearranged the pleats in the sleeve to my liking, rather than Burda's, and shaped the cuff across the overlap corner.
I moved the gathers at the front yoke so that they mostly allowed for additional room at the bust, rather than just next to the armpit. This seems a more flattering placement ;).

SDC10129

I made the back pleat a little more narrow, purely for fabric squeezing reasons, and took in the waist a little at all the darts and the side seams. Unfortunately I failed to realise in the earlier version that the waist of the blouse is a touch lower than the waist on my body. Oops!
Fortunately I plan to wear the blouse tucked in, so this little issue will not be much of a problem.
SDC10132

11 comments:

Sharon said...

Very pretty, only a sewer would know that those tiny squares don't match up and your solution is wonderful.

Gail said...

Lovely job. It must be a lot warmer in Queensland? You couldn't wear your blouse in Sydney right now.

Carol said...

Oh, look, it's raining again! I love your solution to the off grain pattern. Very clever.

Joy said...

I like both versions of the blouse - the different fabrics make them seem like different blouses. The waist shaping is quite nice.

Thread of Light said...

Ooh I like both this and your earlier version. I am really glad to read these as my next project is going to be the dress that is essentially an extended version of these blouses.

I am looking forward to it even more, having seen these photos, and am keen to try the blouse too. Your figure is close enough to mine, your experience will be very helpful. Thankyou!

It is raining where you are! *smiles*
It is totally dry season here now. Our incredibly heavy wet season seems long gone.

KID, MD said...

Beautiful and so flattering! I love the linen inset. Great solution to an annoying problem!

Gabrielle said...

This fits you beautifully, and no one except you will notice the pattern is slightly off grain! The linen inset is a nice creative solution.

HeathersSphere said...

Sleek looking tops that fit you very nicely!

Mary Nanna said...

I love the shaping of this blouse and the feminine sleeve - great adapting with your fabric. I also like your cuff variation - that shape is intriguing.

Carolyn said...

I really like the cream inset alongside the button band. A serendipitous addition indeed! The cuff is a lovely shape too...
(and I'm looking forward very much to seeing the kermit green cardi... :)

irem said...

I just finished sewing my own version! I wish I'd found your post earlier :) I made quite a lot of alterations in my first project, but will be following the original pattern for the next time I guess :)
if you'd like to see how it's done, be my guest! :D
http://sewingyourstyle.tumblr.com