Wednesday, 15 June 2011

Jalie 2795 Jacket. Very Useful Patterns

The older member of the teenage fashion panel has an excellent garment acquisition technique. When someone points out to her that a particular item of clothing is outgrown, or shabby, and that she should buy or sew herself a new one, (DD1 has a part time job, and therefore financial responsiblities), she wears it constantly. I suspect this is to annoy her mother.

If her outgrown 2009 Jalie jacket has not been on her back every day for the past 6 weeks when not in the laundry, I would be very surprized. I may be maligning her. It is possible that the reason for this overuse is the unusually chilly weather. Regardless, I could not stand the sight of it any longer with her wrists sticking out and made another one.

SAM_0540

It turned out quite nicely, as it should, seeing that I have made this pattern 4 times previously.

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I deviate from the pattern a little. The pattern has a lot of piecing that is not necessary for shaping - particularly in the sleeves. I stick all of the sleeve pattern pieces together to make a normal one piece pattern.
I also cut the lower band as one piece.
For fitting, my daughter's jacket is a size R, in diameter, with 7cm lengthening to the body, 5cm lengthening to the sleeves and 5cm lengthening to the hood for a more relaxed look.(The pattern hood is very close fitting, presumably so that it can be worn under a rainjacket hood).
I add an internal zipped pocket, which is simply a panel with a zip inside it, sewn to the wrong side of the inner section of the front pocket lining before applying this to the front.

SAM_0533

I line the hood, and add a front facing to cover the inner zipper tapes. I use woven selvage under the zipper to stabilize the front edge.

For this garment, I played with the fancy stitches on my machine again. The welt bands have a layer of thicker fleece inside (the same Polartech 200 as the main garment fabric), and I lay thin non fusible interfacing at the underside of the folded welt before adding the flower stitch, trimming this away after stitching.

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At the back I used a diamond stitch pattern to machine stitch a flower. It amuses me that it can only be seen with the hood up, very secretive.

SAM_0530

The sleeves are a teensy bit long. This is deliberate. I don't want to see those wrists again if she hits 5 foot 10.

14 comments:

shams said...

Really nice, Karen. And what a clever daughter you have. ;)

Mary Nanna said...

I really love the idea of things hiding under the hood - that element of mystery really makes things fun.

You are so so good, sewing for husband and children. So good. My husband has to bribe even to take up his trousers.

Tanit-Isis said...

You really make some of the best casual wear out there, don't you? This is awesome. I love the extra-long sleeves and the hidey-flower. I will have to remember that idea when I make myself a hooded jacket (can you believe I haven't done a hood yet?). Although I suck at embroidery. Hmm.

Bernice said...

I have just bought some polar fleece to make up a casual vest for my daughter. I may just have to steal your idea by embellishing it with a thread-sketched motif.

Kyle said...

i really really love the embroidered flower on the back, like the leaf on the back of your green fleece. love it!!!!

tropicalthreads said...

Your daughter certainly has her garment-acquisition skills perfected! That is one nice jacket! I love the colour, and the flower. You are inspiring me to want to try some polar fleece sewing myself.

Kathy said...

Gorgeous colour. A very nice jacket, indeed.

liza jane said...

Very clever! Wish I had thought of that tactic as a teenager. I love that embroidered flower under the hood.

Joy said...

What a clever way to get new clothing! Hopefully she is able to wear her new jacket for years!
I really like the subtle embroidery. I wouldn't have thought of embroidering fleece.

Mary said...

I have "starred" this post for all its helpful hints on sewing a polarfleece hoodie. Thanks so much :-) Your daughter is very smart and looks great in that new jacket.

Karin said...

Wow! You sewed yourself a fleece - with a cute flower on the back! That's great! Good idea future proofing the sleeves:-)

velosewer said...

I love this jacket. Your planning and techniques really make this a great piece.

Sharon said...

Gorgeous jacket, love the colour and the flower is so cute.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Your daughter is wise in the ways of clothes-acquiring! Nice job on this; I especially like the flower embroidery.