Friday, 23 September 2011

UFO, one down, one to go, Vogue 8096 men's shirt

I have trouble with UFOs. They lurk, balefully, in my sewing room creating a nasty sense of guilt whenever I start something else. At the beginning of the week, I had two of them, and could hardly see through the gloom in there. Something had to be done.


This is the failed birthday shirt - the one that had flat felled 1/8 inch armscye seams with backward sleeves, placket completed. Nasty behaviour, wasn't it? It has been looking at me since mid July.

A few weeks ago I gave up on the unpicking and sliced off the seam. This was disturbingly satisfying.

Naturally this created a fitting issue, so the partial shirt had to sit on Genevieve the dressform for a few weeks whilst I worked out what to do (and started some other sewing). I decided to slice off the body seams as well, making the shirt a little more narrow in the body as well as the shoulders. I would like to show you that this was fortuitous, as the shirt now fits better than the previous versions, but my model was not willing to have a second photo shoot after the first one at work turned out rather blurry and crumpled - looking.
This shirt was made to order, nearly. Carolyn posted a few months ago about the problem with wearing out very useful basics - do you make the same thing, or make your wardrobe more varied? As far as my husband is concerned, the answer to this is that you replace the item exactly. He wore out the first shirt that I made him, and asked for its twin.
However, I could not cope with this. I need variation in my sewing. I cheated. This is the same fabric (chambray colour oxford cloth cotton shirting fabric) and the same pattern, but I changed a few details.

I used a Greek key embroidery stitch to reinforce the back pleat, and across the top of the chest pocket. The undercollar uses contrast fabric.
I used the constrast fabric to make offset partial plackets. I am fond of the buttons, but as they are an unusual colour, stitched the left over one close to the hem.SAM_0987

The inner cuff and the plackets are contrast too.

The other UFO has been stopped by the requirement for 2 lightweight fawn seperating zips, which are not available locally, and must be ordered. I think this need for ordering should stop the gloomy emmations. I am sure I have some very cheerful and tasteless fabric somewhere that could fix the mood in the sewing room!


Carolyn said...

Wow! All I can say is that if your husband is getting shirts this beautiful then I am not surprised he just wants more of the same! This is beautifully made, the tailoring totally immaculate and I really love the contrast plackets and greek key embellishment. Very very nice... !

LisaB said...

Terrific ideas for changing it up a bit. This is a really lovely shirt. It's quite inspiring!

Anonymous said...

Congrats on finishing up a UFO! This shirt for your husband is very nice, and I'm going to keep your inverted pleat in mind for my hubby's next shirt.

shams said...

WOW, no kidding! That is so beautifully made. And the details!!! WOW!

Audrey said...

Wow, when you address a UFO, you do it with conviction. With all the "slicing" I was having visions of Edward Scissorhands. The shirt looks great and I love the way you snuck a bit of variation into your DH's wardrobe

Remnant said...

I love this shirt. I absolutely love the contrasts and stitching. I'd love to be able to stitch a shirt this fine.

Marie said...

The shirt looks fantastic. You have done an amazing job of it.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Cheerful and tasteless for the win!

Fab job on this shirt. The details are so couture, without taking it into gimmick.

Janine said...

good save ! Looks great.
Has your husband noticed it is not exactly the same ?
I hope you get lots of mileage out of making this shirt for your husband. I usually request lots of cups of tea in the morning.

Anonymous said...

Now you are just showing off. Please, leave the rest of us a little pride. Uncle!!!

Joy said...

Another excellent shirt. I really like the contrasting bits - something I won't try on a men's shirt until my sleeve plackets improve!

katherine h said...

I love the partial offset plackets on this shirt...a detail that I'll have to file away for later use. beautiful shirt.

Gail said...

Congratulations on completing a wonderful shirt. Love the contrasting finishes.

Gabrielle said...

I have read this post a few times on my phone (which I can't seem to comment from) and finally I am back to echo everyone else's comments - this is such a great shirt, it looks so beautifully made - lucky husband!