Friday, 13 April 2012

Burda Style 03-2012-122 cardigan

I have been in a terrible sewing slump. It has been rather depressing.
Fortunately for my considerable investment in fabric, the sudden thought that I needed a warmish top to wear during an in-law visiting trip to the Hunter Valley inspired a 3 hour sewing effort immediately prior to our flight last Thursday, despite sewing nothing for a whole month prior to this. There is nothing like a deadline and a wardrobe omission for removing dithering.
SAM_0911

I was inspired by the March Burda. I had been wanting one of the ubiquitous drapey front cardigans for some time, but every time I admired one on someone else and then tried one on in the shops, the effect was exceedingly fattening, as are all boxy styles on me.
Burda, however, published a pattern of a drapey sort of cardigan with actual bust darts and high waist shaping, and not only did this,but showed the garment in a gauzy pink knit (linen) which was a dead ringer for some gauzy pink merino that I just happened to have in my stash (Global Fabrics, Wellington, March 2011).This was terribly exciting, despite the unfortunate fact that I had half a metre less of the fabric than was required by the pattern.

SAM_0945
Can you see my artful piecing? I pieced the bottom corner of one skirt piece, and the underarm of the left arm.
I made a few adjustments to the pattern,for fitting - square shoulder adjustment,full bust adjustment and generous backside adjustment.I made major adjustments to the sleeves - widening by about 10cm and lowering the sleeve cap by 6cm.
I used clear elastic as reinforcement in the shoulder seams, waist seam and neckline. The back neckline is bound using the binder on my coverstitch - although I basted the binding by hand first as the gauzy fabric was rather unco-operative. I also hand basted all the darts, and hand sewed the upper front neckline facing over the back neck binding at the inner shoulder seams. The rest of the garment was sewn using the overlocker, on a 3 thread stitch.
SAM_0913
I am very pleased with the garment, although in retrospect I have made the sleeves too baggy in the upper arm. The front waist tips down in the technical drawing, so I don't think this effect is due to my alterations.
SAM_0914
I had wanted a light, warm garment for layering during travel, and this was extremely useful, fitting tidily in a small handbag when not needed, and being almost wrinkle free.
I wore this garment frequently during the trip, and was forced to aknowledge that delicate gauze and I are not an excellent combination. There are a myriad of tiny holes developing in the cardigan already. I am not sure if these are due soley to pulling and stretching, or possibly to an unfortunate altercation
with a paddock full of cobblers pegs.
SAM_1044
I may need another one in a more robust fabric.

23 comments:

velosewer said...

Welcome back. I was wondering if you'd gone on holidays or was just taking a break.
This is a nice piece to wear and you've styled it nicely for your visit.
The adjustments you've made make this good fit on you.
I hope you enjoyed your visit as well.

Beverly said...

I love this piece. It fits so well. Great job!

Sharon said...

Good to see you again, and a trip to the Hunter Valley, how much wine was shipped home :)

Very nice cardigan and love the style on you.

Interesting my DS only seems to sew when she has a dealine.

Mary Nanna said...

Ooh I love it - that's one for my wardrobe - and I have just the right fabric - a tencel/merino mix, drapey but more sturdy than your gauze sounds.

Like you I have admired the cascade front cardies out there but ... - perish the thought of adding more bulk to my front!

countrygirlcouture said...

Ooh pretty! I'd definitely make this one again in a sturdier fabric, because this is too cute!

fabric epiphanies said...

This cardigan looks fantastic on you. It is a versatile style as well and would look great as a hip length cardigan too.

Carol said...

Glad to hear from you! I love, love, love this cardigan and look forward to getting this issue. I had planned to cut a boxy shapeless cardigan this very weekend and now I will save my fabric for this. It's a great style on you and makes you look very shapely indeed! It's perfect for the dress underneath.

Carolyn said...

Oh this is GORGEOUS!! I love it, and I need one too, asap. Truly divine.
I've missed you; welcome back!

Bernice said...

You're looking very chic there in the vineyard. Sounds like a great layering piece. Perfect for my climate.

katherine h said...

Definitely the right pattern choice. This looks beautiful on you and you look as though you are having a fabulous time.

Sue said...

Nothng like a hole in the wardrobe to get the sewing started again. Cardi is great - I need to re-visit this issue and look a little closer!

Janine said...

can not see any of your piecing seams at all ! Your cardy looks lovely all the ways you have styled it but sorry to hear about all the little holes - hopefully the fabric doesnt fray too much and you can wear it a bit longer.

KathyS said...

Welcome back. I like your cardi, a most useful wardrobe addition.

Gabrielle said...

This is really beautiful on you - the shape and colour are so feminine!

This looks like a great spot for blog photos too... welcome back.

Audrey said...

That is a great drapey cardigan. And it looks wonderful with both the dress and pants. Very versatile

Tanit-Isis said...

Oh, that is gorgeous! I want one! :)

Allison said...

Great cardigan! I am so glad that you are back to posting. I am usually a lurker but I read your blog religiously and missed your posts.

I agree about the usual drapey cardigan pattern being unflattering but this one is quite lovely. Looks great on you!

Allison said...

Great cardigan! I am so glad that you are back to posting. I am usually a lurker but I read your blog religiously and missed your posts.

I agree about the usual drapey cardigan pattern being unflattering but this one is quite lovely. Looks great on you!

prttynpnk said...

I love this- so much more versatile than the mag pics led me to believe- lovely!

Gail said...

Great work and you'll get back into the swing of things. I have some fabric that is perfect for this cardigan so may add one to my wardrobe too. Still waiting for the March issue to land in Sydney.

gwensews said...

That is a gorgeous cardi. It goes with everything. Love it.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

This is lovely--fantastic sweater! Glad to hear your mojo is back.

Mary said...

That is so pretty on you...and your mojo is back! Win Win