Pattern fickleness, BWOF 12-2008-128 nightie

I am very picky about pyjamas and nighties. They must be comfortable. This is quite different from my need for variety in day clothes. There is nothing wrong with my favourite nightie pattern, BurdaStyle 11-2009-133/134, but pattern fickleness struck me, and I decided to try 12-2008-128, which at first glance is only slightly different.

I have made this previously, for my daughter, and it did not suit her as much as the 2009 pattern, but our figures are quite different, so I had no trepidation about trying it for myself.
This pattern has a cross over bodice, which is usually quite a good style for me.
I made a rough and ready full bust adjustment,


but otherwise made the pattern up as drafted, top size 38, hips size 40.

There were a few fitting issues.
1.The back of the nightie has peaks to which the straps are attached. This was a problem for me, as I often angle straps to attach more centrally at the back to prevent straps falling off my shoulders. Instead I had to cross the straps over at the back so that the straps would behave themselves. If I was to make it again, I would cut out the back as a straight band.

2. The bodice was too wide. I crossed over the front bodice pieces further to fix this, and then needed to add a central inverted pleat to the front skirt. For the back bodice, I used a shorter piece of elastic in the bodice seam, and also stretched the upper border lace elastic when applying it to the back. This helped a bit, but if I were to make the nightie again, I would use a smaller size for the back bodice and take in the skirt at the empire line bodice seam.
3. The nightie was not a flattering length on me - about 7 cm below the knee. I shortened it to knee length.
Construction was not very difficult, and the nightie is the sewing lesson for this issue of the magazine, but I made some changes.
1. I used the overlocker to make the thin straps. It is very easy to turn these if you start by making a long chain,


then place this chain inside the folded strap piece. I used a 3 needle regular stitch, lining up the outside edge of the foot with the folded
edge,



then turned the strap by pulling the chain through.



This is far quicker than using a darning needle as described in the Burda instructions.
2. I used the 3 needle rolled hem on the overlocker again to stitch the darts and the side seams in the silk-cotton batiste bodice lining. I did not do this for the outer fabric, as the cotton voile from Spotlight was much more coarse than the lining.


3. Burda instructs you to apply the neckline lingerie elastic to the outside. My lingerie elastic has a dull and boring edge at the bottom.

I chose to apply this to the inside. I used a 3-step zig-zag stitch (I have been reading my machine manual - apparently this has more stretch than a regular zig-zag) and sewed from the right side. I stretched the elastic quite a bit at the back, and very slightly across the cups at the front to improve the fit.
I sewed the elastic to the inside edge with a straight stitch to prevent the edge poking out.


4. I attached the straps by sandwiching them between the outer fabric and lining. I then had to adjust them by folding the excess strap to the inside (my dressform let my down here). I tacked the mitred edges of the lingerie elastic to the straps to keep the elastic upright.
This nightie is OK, but I plan to stick to my tried and true 11-2009 version until some different pattern takes my fancy.

I have been working quite a bit on my sewing room, which is currently in a state of unnatural tidiness. I particularly like this photo which makes it look enormous (the room is 2.4m x 3m (just under 8 feet by 10 feet) - it has been converted from one end of the side verandah - what is known here as a sleep-out. I keep planning a show and tell post, but my husband is continuing to make adjustments. Currently I am in the fortunate position of waiting for a set of mirrors and a ceiling fan.

BWOF 12-2008-102 progress shots

I am further ahead with my sewing than my photos, but here are some thrilling construction shots of the evening dress
The bodice was a little touch and go at the draping stage. I do not have a dress form, and my FBA to the outer bodice front was a little dodgy on technique, so I held my breath whilst attaching the bodice drape to the silk organza interfacing layer. BWOF wanted me to use fusible interfacing, but I felt my dress deserved better insides.

The interfacing layer was much larger than the outer borders of the drape piece. The front bodice looked a bit like a balloon when I first sewed it. Had I not recently made some pleated front knit clothing from Burda, this would have bothered me, but knowing that pulled tight pleats look better than poofy ones, I could sew this piece without thinking about it too much.
I really wished for a dress form at this stage for some judicious ironing and steaming work, but had to pull the pleats into position whilst modelling the bodice section. Fortunately the shantung holds pleats nicely.

In spite of my adjustments to the toile, after I attached the skirt to the bodice there was a lot of fiddling with the centre back seam for fitting. I have a superb final fitting technique here. My daughter pins me into the dress, then marks each side of the seam with another set of pins.
She usually elicits promises for future items of clothing whilst carrying out this task, negotiation from a position of power with the pins seems quite effective.

This morning I got up at the crack of dawn for my last opportunity to use my sewing machine before we leave for Brisbane. I put in the zipper (second time after removing the bum bobble yesterday), the boning and the lining - first time ever for boning! I have not tried the dress on again yet, so am crossing my fingers that I do not have to make any adjustments - handsewing a hem in a hotel room is one thing, handsewing fitting adjustments another.

Black evening dress

I know I said I would post about more fabric shopping, but I have been sewing today, so there is a detour.

A few weeks ago, I posted at Stitchers Guild about a dilemma. I am attending a conference next week, at which there is a Saturday night Ball. Initially I was quite excited about the sewing possibilities, but then I discovered that this was a black and white ball. Not a problem for many people, but as I generally look like death warmed up in either black or white, I felt rather disappointed about the theme. I also felt rather scared of sewing a formal dress.
Fortunately, as usual, the ladies at Stitcher's Guild had some very good advice for me. In a nutshell, the overall theme seemed to be, show plenty of skin, and keep the black away from your face.
I started to investigate patterns. Actually I bought patterns.
My early choice was Vintage Butterick 4919, photo credit Butterick patterns
which I really fancied making, and which looked a bit like the glamourous gowns suggested by the ladies at Stitcher's Guild. However, I showed this pattern to my daughters, who both said I would look as wide as I was tall, so this gown was scratched.
Next, I bought some Vogue patterns.
Vogue 1108, photo credit Vogue patterns,


I thought this might be a smart dress, maybe with a smaller bow . I showed it to my husband. He said it looked matronly. Now my husband has an endearing habit of thinking I look the same as I did when we first met, around 22 years ago, so I don't entirely trust his sartorial opininon, but he does not like this dress, and he is attending the dinner with me, so it was scratched too.
I sought some opinions on my Burda magazine collection. My daughters and my husband both liked this dress, BWOF 2008-12-102.
I was not so sure. It is rather bare. However, I have a nice stole as a cover up, only 8 years old (my brother's wedding) and black (no other colours available in the shops at the time), so I thought I would try this pattern.
I have not made a formal evening dress for 17 years. My figure was considerably smaller 17 years ago. I have not worn a formal evening dress for 8 years. My life does not generally call for formal clothing. This is an adventure. Somehow adventure sounds better than "I have no idea what I am doing".
Surprizingly, this dress is not terribly difficult to date. Abolishing the upper chest, shoulders and sleeves elimates a lot of of fitting issues. Remaining are my usual full bust adjustment

O.K. Princess line bodice FBA I can do, but what do you do with this?

I guessed - the lining is wider and longer, so I adjusted the pleated thingy the same amount as the lining horizontally and vertically.

Next was the backside and waist, out at one, and in at the other, so far, so good.

So today I sewed it up in black silk shantung from Gorgeous fabrics. Nearly done, and the only problem is getting in to the dratted thing. Women with my waist/hip ratio need a long zip, but a long zip in a dress with no back means unsightly bubbles at the bum - I will have to lie down to get this dress on! I should have put an extra zip in the side seam. I hope for dressed up photos later in the week. I wonder if my husband still fits into his dinner suit? Knowing him, it will be too big, and I will have to take it in!

BWOF 12-2008-130 sorted out

I now feel in good company with my fitting woes, but was there really no laughing? My daughters were both highly amused. I suppose it is good to provide entertainment for your children....
After such lovely encouragement I unpicked the bodice of the dress, and eased the seams of the bodice to the insert so that I could shorten the insert and make it lie more flat. This improved matters somewhat, but not sufficiently, so I added a few beads to the top line of the smocking, using the beading threads to position the neckline and prevent puffiness, then I stab stitched the lower part of the insert to the lining in a few spots to keep it in place. I am now much more pleased with the dress, although I am planning to never stand with my arms behind my back whilst wearing it.

I am indulging myself with inside photographs. I fully lined the dress, with the imperial batiste used for the bodice, but was feeling impatient when I put the zip in, and sewed both layers as one. I did not like the appearance of this raw edge in contrast to my lovely lining, so have bound the zip tapes with some quilting cotton.
I also used lace to finish the bottom of the skirt lining to make it pretty. I think I like this dress now. I have made another top to wear with it, but will write about that in a later post.

The woes of BWOF 12-2008-130, and distractions

Thank you to the kind people who assured me that RTW polar fleece jackets are worse than mine. I now realize that I have become a fit snob. I don't think I can change this development, and unfortunately it is interfering with my sewing. It is just as well that I have a whole family for whom I can sew.

Gail asked me what went wrong with the mojo killing project. It was fitting. Are you surprised? I am disproportionately discouraged by fitting failures.
Here are some photographs of the second toile,of BWOF 2008-12-130, after adjusting. Giggling is allowed in the privacy of your own home.


This is where I had a little rest from sewing for myself (that was in July). Little rest sounds better than gave up :)
This week I returned to the project. I had already re-drawn the pieces for the skirt, the front bodice with the new huge horizontal dart and avoided the terrible fitting back bodice by converting the nifty cross over back to a regular centre back fastening. Cutting out, I could manage. I had a lovely time smocking the insert, and on constructing the dress today, was moderately happy with the silhouette from the front,





but from the side!!!!


Rolling around on the floor laughing is allowed in the privacy of your home :)).
Looking again at the magazine photo, I think this may be a design characteristic, the gathered front looks rather droopy on the model, who, being a model, has no bust. Hmmm, back to knitting socks I think.

The socks fit very nicely thank you.

BWOF 12-2008-128 and 129, pyjamas

I made my daughter some pyjamas from the December BWOF. Fortuitously this magazine arrived just before Christmas, so I could slip them into her present. (Carol asked me how I was getting BWOF so early, and the answer is a subscription straight from Germany. Until recently there were not even 3 month old BWOF magazines in my local newsagent, of course, once I subscribed, the newsagent started to stock them....)
Here is the technical drawing from the BWOF site

 

I made the top from a lightweight cotton print, lined with white cotton broadcloth (I'm out of batiste) and the shorts are from a rib knit remnant. I used a lettuce hem on the shorts, and liking this effect for teenager pjs, I made a very long skinny strip of lettuce frill to insert between the outside and lining of the upper bodice neck and arm edge. I used red lingerie strap elastic instead of making fabric straps per the pattern. 

My daughter and I both like the pyjamas, but I did need to adjust them to alter the high skin exposure of the original ling erie pattern, so that my daughter can wear these to sleepovers. The shorts are a good 5cm longer in the leg than the pattern. I also needed to take them in 3 cm on each side seam as the pattern is for a woven fabric, and these are knit, so were originally too big.
I made several alterations to the front bodice. My daughter's measurements are just below size 34, so I scaled down to a size 34, then made a SBA of 1/4 inch. I also raised the height of the bodice around 1 and 1/2 cm. The straps are also shorter than those shown in the model photograph.
The top was too big after these changes, and I had to make post construction alterations, as the pyjamas were a surprise present. I took in the side seams a litte, and increased the stretch of the back elastic. If I make these again, I will make the upper bodice smaller, particularly in the back.