Simplicity 1882, an out-to-lunch frock

I had been making this frock for quite a while, but just finished it last week for a lunch date with my mother and daughter.

It was a lovely day out.
I needed the prospect of such a day to finish this, as although I am content with the dress now, it was a bit of a wrestling match to get it to this point.

What attracted me to the pattern was the pleasing collar and interesting pocket flanges of the version photographed for the envelope. I am also a sucker for A_D cup sizing and deceptive blurbs such as "amazing fit", which in this case includes a curvy and slim/average fitting for the skirt and a lot of seaming in the dress which does lend itself to fitting changes. I really have to give Simplicity credit for trying hard to meet the exacting requirements of  the hobby seamstress here!

I really like all the details on this pattern - the curved midriff, the piping, the pleasing neckline and collar.

However, "amazing fit" does not mean "fits me". Cup sizing doesn't mean it fits me in the bust either. My adjustments for this dress were legion, just like they are for any new block. In this case I made one size smaller than my body chart measurements indicate, as the ease was considerable according to the finished pattern measurements, and I also shortened the dress in the bodice, midriff and skirt.

I added an extra dart to the back of the curvy skirt (I must be extra curvy) and also took the dress in by 8cm at the back waist tapering to 3 cm at the back neck,  and 1cm at each side waist seam (remember this is After going down a size).There was some tweaking of the bust fitting, which was not resolved to my satisfaction, and also my standard square shoulder adjustment.
Whew!
I know why I love the beautifully standardized Burda sizing - at least I know my adjustments there.

In addition to the fitting issues, which are more my problem than Simplicity's - other than the non standard blocks they use, there was some trouble with the pocket flanges.
These did not lie flat, as drafted, and had to be shortened, and also reinforced with stay tape to minimize gaping.

They looked pretty smart with their piping, and I was very pleased with them until I tried the dress on and realised that the visual effect was unpleasingly widening. Sigh.
There was some very fiddly unpicking, and the pockets were refinished with discrete baby piping. Unfortunately, they still gape after you have been sitting down in the dress eating delicious lunch for a few hours. Skirt pockets and I do not make good company.

The collar was also pesky. It looks great at the front, but sticks out at the back. It did this before I took in the back bodice too, so I believe it is a drafting issue.
I might button it down here later if I can be bothered.

I lined the dress, and gave the lining a lace edging.

It feels luxurious.
I predict that this will be a  good wardrobe staple. My last beige linen dress has died an honourable death from fabric wear.

Stashbusting statistics 2009 embroidered linen from Gorgeous fabrics, 2.5m, + 2 m imperial batiste 2009 for lining.