Mock wrap top for a teenager, Simplicity 4568

One of my nieces has just turned 14, and in a moment of insanity I thought I'd make her something for her birthday.

This is only insanity because she lives about a thousand kilometers away from me, and the size and shape of a 14 year old girl can change dramatically in a few months - I last saw my niece in August.
I'm not completely crazy, I did check her current RTW size with my sister-in-law, but I admit to some nervousness before I recieved a lovely thank you email and a photo showing that this fits very nicely, even if it will only be for a few months. (My niece is very well trained in how to keep a sewing Auntie happy)

I had a lovely time making this top for her. I used Simplicity 4568 , from which my daughters had several tops at a similar age, and for them, as for my niece, I used the current size for height, 14, and one size smaller for width.
Previous, alternative, use of this pattern is shown here and below

This top has some lovely details for girls of this age, with small bust darts, waist shaping and a bias cut in the lower bodice, which suits an immature but not child's figure. There is a paucity of patterns for adolescent girls which have these components, and I think this pattern works just as well now as it did 10 years ago.

The fabric used is a medium weight woven rayon from StoneMountain&Daughter. As the pattern has several relatively small pieces I was able to use some oddly shaped remnants. I was very pleased to make good use of the rest of this rather indulgent purchase for myself!

I altered the pattern slightly in construction, using bias binding, hand stitched internally, to finish the neckline and armscyes, and attaching the empire waistline ties to the bottom of the crossed over upper bodice rather than the side seam to give emphasis to the mock wrap design.
I used French seams throughout, added a small front shoulder pleat to give additional bust room and correc the pattern's drafting error which mismatches the shoulder length in the larger sizes. I also added a snap fastener to the cross over section for security.

Instant gratification

A clothing crisis occurred at our house last night. DD the younger had nothing to wear on a Saturday trip to the Sunshine Coast with her sister and Dad. Growth is a wardrobe limiting event.
I prefer sewing with wovens, but have to admit that knits are fabulously fast (when all goes well). Amazingly, this tunic/dress was straightforward and problem free.

I used a probably cotton knit stripe print that was passed on to me by my Mother's quilting group. The waistband is a remnant of cotton lycra knit from Fashionista Fabrics.
My daughter is wearing this with her yoga pants made last year from Jalie 2215, also from the Fashionista Fabric cotton lycra. The pants are a little short, even after I let down the hem, but she tells me ankle length is fine! I will make her another pair once I find some suitable fabric.
The outfit is designed to unlayer as the day warms up. I am in big trouble for making her remove her coat at 6.30am, but wisely insisted on a pre-sewing agreement that she would pose for photographs, in daylight,in the finished product. I was, however, only permitted one photograph without the coat. Her is a close up of the button fastening at the bodice. These are probably not necessary to keep the neckline closed, but we like the buttons.

The last photograph is from my daughter's previous use of the pattern - Lizzie McGuire Simplicity 4568. She made the previous one herself, but is not currently interested in sewing. Maybe I should just give her a pile of fabric next time she wants a new outfit?

This time we used the biggest size, ignored the bust darts/gathers when cutting out, took in all the vertical seams a little as the fabric is knit,added a centre waistband (stretching the waistband a little at the front bodice seam to gather under the bust)and used the width of the fabric, gathered slightly, for the skirt. The bodice is lined with the same knit fabric, and the length determined by how much was left.