To deal with both these factors, I added an inset to the button bands - cream linen. This means that I do not have to look at off kilter squares failing to meet each other as I button my blouse. I also made the button bands a little wider so that an ordinairy shirt button can have a horizontal button hole, rather than vertical as in the previous blouse. I do not trust vertical buttonholes under horizontal strain. (The linen is a scrap left over from my cream linen trousers so that I can be matchy-matchy in another outfit). I have topstitched the linen joining seam with a dark brown embroidery stitch, but have failed to have my photographer take a close up so unfortunately this is decoration is not visible in my photograph.
My pattern changes this time around were to re-shrink the sleeve to nearly its former dimensions ( other than a little width remaining to allow for my square shoulder ajustment). I rearranged the pleats in the sleeve to my liking, rather than Burda's, and shaped the cuff across the overlap corner.
I moved the gathers at the front yoke so that they mostly allowed for additional room at the bust, rather than just next to the armpit. This seems a more flattering placement ;).
I made the back pleat a little more narrow, purely for fabric squeezing reasons, and took in the waist a little at all the darts and the side seams. Unfortunately I failed to realise in the earlier version that the waist of the blouse is a touch lower than the waist on my body. Oops!
Fortunately I plan to wear the blouse tucked in, so this little issue will not be much of a problem.
