Thursday, 29 May 2008

How to finish the collar

 I am making Simplicity 9461 for my daughter's travel wardrobe, and thought I would like to finish the inside back neck with a strip of bias binding instead of hand stitching the collar. There is no real reason for this, as I do not mind hand stitching, but I have noticed this finish on several shirts on patternreview lately and thought I would like to try it.
  I am making this blouse from imperial batiste, so have cut the fronts out on the fold, to give a double layer of fabric over the bust, removing the need for an under garment. I expect that this shirt will be worn in hot weather. To take advantage of the double layer of fabric, I am sandwiching the collar between the front and front lining by wrapping the fold around the collar. In the back, I have inserted a strip of bias fabric so that the stitching line will allow enough bias to turn over the trimmed seam allowance.
  I have butted the bias strip with a folded over short edge to the folded over lining. The plan is that there will be no raw edges sticking out, and that when turned in, there will be a neat finish on the inside shoulder seam and in the back neck. I have hand stitched a saddle stitch along the shoulder seam, and plan to also topstitch the collar and front opening edges with the same stitch. I have used 3 strands of DMC cotton in the same pale brownish beige colour as 2 of her travel pants for the topstitching, and this colour is also used for the french knots in the center of the lazy daisies on the left front bodice. The lazy daisies are in 2 colours of pink, 2strands dark, one light, and one light, 2 dark, to give a variegated effect.
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1 comment:

Alexandra said...

I love the clean finish with the bias strip! Thank you for the detail pictures; I couldn't quite wrap my head around how it's done until I saw the pictures.