Tuesday, 17 March 2009

V7903 olive stripe version

Olive stripe is how Michael's Fabrics described this fabulous shirting cotton, but it looks much more pale than olive to me - white and beige with a tiny deep burgundy stripe. I loved sewing this fabric. I made V7903 again, but decided to try a 7/8 to 3/4 very simple sleeve rather than a proper sleeve with a buttoning cuff.This particular sleeve design was due to my inherent laziness. I did not want to fit the long sleeve from the Sandra Betzina pattern at the particular moment I happened to be cutting out, so I winged it by eyeballing the short sleeve I had already adjusted. It seems to work.
I am particularly happy with the collar. The contrast inner collar stand is a quilting fabric scrap left over from a shirt I made for my son. He thinks this is rather cool on my shirt, as he selected the fabric, both for the original purpose, and to put on my shirt whilst I was pouring over the scrap bag for a suitable print. It is lovely to have a 6 year old who is excited about making things. The only problem is, he was visiting me at the sewing machine in order to request a quiver for his arrows, and a scabbard for his sword. This has something to do with Robin Hood, or possibly dragon hunting, and may be leading to a new cloak request. My SWAP is retreating into the distance.


For this shirt, I added a yoke to the back, and an inverted pleat to the centre back. I lay the two piece back pattern on the fold of fabric, with the very large adjustment for "sway back" giving a generous amount of pleat at the yoke level. I closed the pleat again for a short distance at waist level, making an "action back", as described with lovely internal construction photographs in a nursing corporate clothing catalogue I saw up at the hospital last week. I had not considered looking at corporate clothing catalogues for sewing tips before, but there is useful information in all sorts of peculiar places! I left in the two back darts, as I do not want a ballooning shirt back whilst wearing this with my wide legged Marlene pants.


Although I was feeling lazy about the sleeves, I did use the cross grain for the under cuff. I interfaced with silk organza, which felt rather luxurious. I hand sewed the inner cuff to the sleeve using running stitch in the pale beige (3 strands of DMC stranded cotton) then alternated stitches with the burgundy. I quite like this effect when I wear the sleeve rolled down, and have the horizontal stripe on view with the sleeve rolled up to 3/4 length.

This is possibly top number 3 in my SWAP. I am not sure if this will look good with my possible jacket options - I will worry about this if I get up to the jacket.
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Carol said...

I just received a catalogue for a corporate supplier - NT I think they were called. Their range of uniforms is quite funky and I plan to try and copy one of their looks. I love the way you use contrast on your tops. I've just cut out an orange shirtdress and will probably use left over quilting cotton from another project for the collar!!

gwensews said...

The inner collar contrast is very fashion-forward in expensive RTW. 3/4 length sleeves are very fresh looking. Nice blouse.

Uta said...

What a nice, crisp, classic shirt! I've never - consciously - seen an "action back", but it seems to be a clever idea to cut down on the billowing and tucking in. Also, I love that look with Marlene pants - that's how Marlene wore them, after all!