Sunday, 24 January 2010

Burda World of Fashion 09-2008-115 frankenpattern blouse

I made version B of this blouse from the September 08 Burda magazine back in June (plain collar). My daughter really likes the first version, so for her next SWAP blouse, I planned a summer version of the same pattern. Unfortunately, she is now the next size, so I had to trace it out again. Boo Hiss.
Whilst I was tracing it out again, I decided to make different sleeves. These sleeves started as the sleeves from #126 from the same issue. There does not seem to be a technical drawing of the 126 sleeves on the website, but basically they are pleated short sleeves into a cuff. I had to scale down to a size 36, then I flared out the bottom of the sleeve a little so that I could make inverted pleats mimicking the inverted tucks on the blouse front and back. They are held in place by a strip of contrast fabric. It was not going to be constrast, but I had none of the cream and blue check left, not even a scrap for sleeve trim. See that contrast inner collar stand and pieced, bias cut collar? That is fabric squeezing, not a planned choice.
I am quite pleased with the sleeves, and would be even more pleased with them had I been able to wait to make them until I could buy some more dark grey thread. That pale grey is really showing up in the photo! I am not good at waiting for sewing supplies before finishing a project. If I feel bored one day I will unpick this (not likely)
This time, I had to release the back tucks at the bottom for fitting. The tucks end about 7 cm below the waist, which does not allow for any backside. Models must have flat backsides. In the photo my daughter is wearing the blouse with the 12-2009 pants again.
Materials cost: Fabric - I am tempted to call this a scrap, as it is left over from a 7 year old work blouse for me (still in my wardrobe, in near rag state, this is a good excuse to throw it out), however, there was about 1 metre + scraps left, and the fabric was around $20 per metre from Kerryn's Fabric World. It is good quality medium weight cotton, and wears very well :) =$20. (cotton quilting scraps for inner collar and sleeve trim, free)
Pattern - free, second use of pattern
Buttons - recycled. I love these square buttons.
Thread and interfacing $3

Total $23.


KID, MD said...

I would never guess that the contrast wasn't a conscious choice. It looks awesome. Great blouse! said...

Nicely done! She looks sharp.

Handmade said...

A very neat and crisp shirt - love the contrasts.

Gail said...

Very nice blouse. Your daughter has amazingly sophisticated taste for a young girl. My dds are all jeans, t-shirts and mini skirts.

Sharon said...

The blouse for your daughter is lovely and the trim makes it.

gwensews said...

The contrast on the sleeve and collar is really lovely. It looks planned. That blouse looks very upscale. Nice sewing!

Claudine said...

OMG fantastic! I love the shape of the blouse, and I especially love the mix of fabrics. I'm working on a blouse myself at the moment, so it's nice to see your blouse rendition.

Patricia said...

The blouse is beautiful and the trim looks intentional.
Did you know that there is a lovely little sewing tool called a "Sharpie" It is a permnent felt tip marker with a fine point? The intended use of which is to tone down/alter thread mishaps such as yours. I have them in a huge range of colours. It might be worth a try if the thread colour cpntinues to bother you.

Carol said...

This is lovely and your daughter looks so grown up. I love the fabric.

Anonymous said...

The two blouses you have done for your daughter are beautiful! I love the use of contrast fabric, the repetition of the pleats on the second, and the style of the first one is great. I didn't even notice this blouse, you two have a great eye for stylish patterns!