I made version B of this blouse from the September 08 Burda magazine back in June (plain collar). My daughter really likes the first version, so for her next SWAP blouse, I planned a summer version of the same pattern. Unfortunately, she is now the next size, so I had to trace it out again. Boo Hiss.
Whilst I was tracing it out again, I decided to make different sleeves. These sleeves started as the sleeves from #126 from the same issue. There does not seem to be a technical drawing of the 126 sleeves on the website, but basically they are pleated short sleeves into a cuff. I had to scale down to a size 36, then I flared out the bottom of the sleeve a little so that I could make inverted pleats mimicking the inverted tucks on the blouse front and back. They are held in place by a strip of contrast fabric. It was not going to be constrast, but I had none of the cream and blue check left, not even a scrap for sleeve trim. See that contrast inner collar stand and pieced, bias cut collar? That is fabric squeezing, not a planned choice.
I am quite pleased with the sleeves, and would be even more pleased with them had I been able to wait to make them until I could buy some more dark grey thread. That pale grey is really showing up in the photo! I am not good at waiting for sewing supplies before finishing a project. If I feel bored one day I will unpick this (not likely)
This time, I had to release the back tucks at the bottom for fitting. The tucks end about 7 cm below the waist, which does not allow for any backside. Models must have flat backsides. In the photo my daughter is wearing the blouse with the 12-2009 pants again.
Materials cost: Fabric - I am tempted to call this a scrap, as it is left over from a 7 year old work blouse for me (still in my wardrobe, in near rag state, this is a good excuse to throw it out), however, there was about 1 metre + scraps left, and the fabric was around $20 per metre from Kerryn's Fabric World. It is good quality medium weight cotton, and wears very well :) =$20. (cotton quilting scraps for inner collar and sleeve trim, free)
Pattern - free, second use of pattern
Buttons - recycled. I love these square buttons.
Thread and interfacing $3