Thursday, 14 October 2010

Thrilling fitting post - Lady Grey toile 2

Thank you for the compliments about the new blog layout. I am still trying to recover from the closing of bloglines, and this is part of my plan to still be able to read about other people's sewing when mine drags a bit. Mine is dragging this week, can you tell?
I am being diligent with this coat. I have spent hours this week adjusting my pattern pieces, and sewing up this new toile. I am afraid it is rather dull to read about. Virtue is nearly always dull to read about. See my halo? No?
I nearly flew off in the wind - that is the closest I am likely to get to a halo.
SAM_2262
It is quite stormy here, but we don't have as much rain as Carol, who was gloating earlier this week that she was flooded in, at least she was gloating until the bit where she ran out of thread. I wonder if the SES does helicopter drops of sewing supplies? My children were flooded out of school yesterday - fortunately only the bridge went under, the school was intact for their return today. They were not entirely happy about this.
It is a very boring toile week here, I seem to be writing about the weather rather than my sewing.
Here is a more representative photograph of toile 2
SAM_2271
- I have taken Robin's good advice, and gone back to fitting just the body, before I fuss with the collar and sleeves. I have squared the shoulders by another 10mm - front and back (Joy asked if I raise the armscye when I square the shoulder. I don't, as I have very sturdy limbs, and need all the arm room I can get - I am considering lowering the armscye in this coat). I widened the shoulders by 10mm, and I have also made a full bust adjustment of 1.5cm, without altering the outer lapel, thinking this would be enough of a change to fix the lapel gaping that Elizabeth spotted, but I was wrong, the lapel still needs further shortening. I also need to take some of the curve out of the upper back.
SAM_2274
You may notice that I have lengthened the coat by 13 and 1/2 inches. It is pretty easy to miss a little change like that.
I quite like it this length in real life, but feel that the photographs endow me with an alarming amount of dumpiness. The next toile is heading back around the knee. I am pretty sure I do not have enough fabric for this length anyway, but it was fun to try.
Are there any more glaring misfits that need fixing before I tackle the collar?

6 comments:

Joy said...

Ah, good to know raising the armscye is not a steadfast rule...it goes against reason (in my head anyway) that someone with "sturdy" enough shoulders to require a square shoulder alteration would also have a tiny underarm.

Gail said...

I'm sure that once you get this right it will be the best coat you've ever made. Still I have a feeling that there is something 'not quite right about this pattern' - so many very experienced sewers have struggled with the fit. Me,I have enough pattern pain without adding this to the list!

katherine h said...

Just a reply to Joy...we come in all shapes and sizes....I always have to do square shoulder alterations and I have skinny arms, so I do have to raise the armscye. One thing I have learned about square shoulder alterations is that you have to remember to alter the collar, to allow the extra spread you added at the shoulder, otherwise the edges of the collar are not long enough to sit nicely. So if I do a 1 cm square shoulder, I have to add 2cm of length to the part of the collar that sits over the shouldr bone...less for a skinny collar and more for a very wide collar.

Joy said...

hmmm... Thanks katherine, definitely gives me a few things to ponder. I certainly wouldn't have thought about needing to alter the collar. I too have square shoulders and scrawny arms, but it seems the muscle in front of the shoulder is "well-built". (Ouch, did I just say that?) Then I have to add the forward shoulder to the mix...

More fun shoulder alterations to try!

Handmade said...

Your attention to this project is impressive - progressing very well.

Carolyn said...

I think your coat is going to be well worth the effort you are putting in! btw, do you ever go out to check out the sartorialist blogspot? There is a photo over there, posted in the last week or so; of a very regal Parisienne lady in a lovely pale pink coat that your toile reminds me of, in shape. May have inspired me to get this pattern too...