Tuesday, 12 October 2010

Lady Grey Toile 1

Eventually, I tore myself away from the joys of chocolate cake, and did some sewing.
The first toile of the Lady Grey Coat was not too bad. My preliminary adjustment was a mere 5mm square shoulder adjustment.
1. I think the pattern is flattering
2. The sleeve fit is horrendous
3. The toile is too tight at the bust and shoulders
4. The waist and hips are loose - I went up a size here, and I don't think this was necessary.
Adjustment 1
I slavishly followed Elizabeth, and rotated the sleeve forward by 25mm. This improved the fit at the sleeve, but it is not right yet.

My next plan is to increase the square shoulder adjustment by about 10mm, and to make a full bust adjustment. I am hoping that these two adjustments give me enough room at the torso. The coat is worn over a close fitting t shirt at the moment, so considerably more ease will be needed for the real deal.
I also plan to make the sleeves full length and fabric permitting, lengthen the coat to around the knee.

Anything else you think I should change?


Gail said...

i haven't seen anyone get past the toile stage on this coat. The sleeves are very strange and wide. Good luck!

shams said...

I think this shows a lot of promise. It is a good shape for you.

Handmade said...

I like your new blue blog background .... hmmm ...yes, it is generally looking fine - the sleeves are bumpy - as you said - I can't make out of season garments(you know the weather is warming up and time for summery things ...) - but good for you!!

Mary Nanna said...

I like your new blog layout - nice to have a change now and again, isn't it?

I think the coat will be gorgeous. It's strange, I've seen this coat gives curves to those with none, and highlight in a flattering way those with plenty, and look good on a whole lot of figures inbetween.

And I have also seen it do terrible things to people's figures. I can't figure it why it looks so good on some people and so frumpy on others. Maybe it's the personal style of the person, people who love the look and make it work and those that don't ?

At any rate, it is a very shapely coat and I have high hopes for your success with it.

Anonymous said...

Karen: let out the sleeve basting between the notches, and smooth it till the wrinkles come out. I had to increase the cap height 5/8" on mine, looks like yours may be similar. That improved the overall feel of the coat for me in terms of mobility and not feeling too tight. You also have the same lapel gape that I did (well, less, as you are slightly curvier than I). And if my experience is anything to go by you will also have to add a wedge to the back collar so that it will cover the square shoulders and not pull in a strange and terrible fashion.

And is it dipping in front? Can't tell if it's just the picture.

But it will look good on you. I agree with what Mary Nanna said - i think it really doesn't suit an apple figure AT ALL, and even perhaps not a rectangle figure. Pear or hourglass, OK. Busty OK. But you need a waist for sure.

Gail, I'm out of toile at last!

Anonymous said...

And, rotate the sleeve more. I did 1 1/8"!!

a little sewing on the side said...

I agree this style is very flattering for you. Elizabeth's suggestions seem like they should help. If I find the time to try this style, I will work on the fit without the sleeves attached yet, then use a TNT sleeve from another pattern. You know, once we get used to the look of a good fit, there is no going back, is there?

~Sherry~ said...

Nice new blog!
This jacket either works on you or it doesn't alright - I think you can make yours work!
I agree that you need more height in the sleeve head,it will also help to level the cuffline.

Joy said...

I think the fit is looking pretty good, especially the side view. As others have said, perhaps having the right shape helps.

Do you do a classic square shoulder adjustment - including raising the armhole? I can't wrap my mind around that part, so I haven't ventured into trying that alteration for myself yet.