My fabric hogging Jacaranda coat gave me fabric remorse. Not purchasing remorse, which rarely afflicts me, due to my fondness for fabric collecting, but use remorse. This purple linen had been dozens of beautiful garments in my imagination, and I mourned every one of these after I had finished the coat. I have never claimed to be rational about sewing.
After considering the pitiful remnants for a few weeks, I decided that I almost had enough fabric to make BWOF 4-2009-101.
It took some squeezing, and a centre back seam, but I managed to cut it out. This was a great balm to my fabric remorse.
Even better, I could use the same oddly shaped pieces from the coat lining for the inside of my skirt.
I have made two of these skirts previously, which I have been wearing frequently for over 18 months, and the inside of both annoy me each time I put them on. I had already sewn the back side pieces to the centre back when I decided to take more trouble this time.
I tried underlining. I had never done this before for a whole garment, due to my frequent need for post construction fitting, but I felt confident that I could manage with this pattern. I see from the date on Laura Lo's tutorial, that I have been thinking about trying this for more than 2 and 1/2 years.
I did not measure precisely, which is the recommended technique, just cut out the underlining approximately 1.5cm bigger at the horizontal edges, using the cut-out, outer fabric pieces as a pattern. The back pieces I sewed together as a detached lining, but the centre back and side seam as underlining. This was fortuitous, as there is a huge curve for me in the seam I had already sewn, and I did not want to clip my pretty faux bound seams. There were several advantages to using the underlining - pre-finished seams, increased seam allowance, and a bit more body for the top of the skirt.
I was pleased with the effect of the underlining, so kept fiddling with new techniques. I am very fond of invisible zips, but felt that there were too many layers of fabric to use one. Instead I used the new-to-me insertion technique from Kenneth King's Cool Couture for a lapped zipper.
This was terrific - fast and easy, even the hand picked bit, but I overlooked a small problem. The technique expects a waistband to be attached, and there is no waistband at the back of this pattern. I bound the top of the underlap with bias binding, and added a tab and button on the inside to keep the top closed. It is not too bad.
I have looked up a better way of doing this for next time (Australian Stitches Vol 9 #8)
I was not sure how to finish the bottom edge of the underlining. I should have finished them before sewing the seams. To disguise this oversight, I hand-stitched lace to the hem.
I used the same buttons for the skirt as for my coat. I am quite certain that the skirt will show them off more frequently. This whole project makes me happy. Now I just need some tops to wear with it.