After the Kahliah Ali nasty hard work fitting surprise, I did some nice soothing Sunday afternoon sewing - Jalie sweetheart top about version #25 for my younger daughter
then Burda Style 12-2009 pyjamas about version #15 for my older daughter
(Whilst I am ranting I will mention that I thought I was off the hook after making 5 sets of pyjamas for this daughter last summer, but she insisted on continuing to grow, even though her 13 year old sister seems to have stopped)
Then I started reading comments on my previous 2 posts. Some of these are fabulous.
First I would like to quote Mary Nanna, and Mary Nanna's sister, by hearsay.
My sister was mocking me last night for sewing from pattern magazines and not using the big 4. "What, are they too mainstream for you, too guaranteed to be successful, not enough risk and kook for ya?" See she was WRONG about that.
Well, yes, and now I'm laughing about it. Thanks
I find Jalie and Burda very consistent - and when they are not consistent, they give you a big fat clue like "Burda TALL" or "Burda PETITE" or "LARGER SIZE" with a specific measurement chart in the magazine (although I admit, the different draft for the clothes in the larger sizes section seems to be secret insider knowledge). Jalie of course, did change their letter code to match a different body measurement chart a few years ago, but the chart on the pattern envelope for body measurements matches the pattern in the same envelope.
Some of the comments left me feeling a bit annoyed. I was already grumpy, so am probably over reacting. I am quite ready to blame myself for bad sewing, but pattern drafting issues in a purchased pattern are not my problem, and I feel entitled to whine about them.
I am not sufficiently familiar with Patrones to comment on the consistency. To answer several commentors, who may not have read the entire post, I used the body measurement chart in the magazine to check my size, I did not just pick a size at random, nor use the Spanish or German ready to wear clothing sizes, (with which I am not familiar). This is also what I did with the Khaliah Ali pattern.
Burda size 38 - Body Measurement Bust 88cm Waist 70cm
Patrones size 40 - Body Measurement Bust 88cm Waist 66cm
KA Simplicity size 12 - Body Measurement Bust 87cm Waist 67 cm
The shoulder to bust length is slightly less in the Patrones chart than in the Burda, and is not given for the Simplicity chart.
The difference in fitting is mainly due to the pattern draft and design ease. My body measurements did not change whilst sewing these patterns.
The difference in waist measurement is not significant for me, I always take in Burda patterns at the waist, by about 5cm. The Patrones blouse was merely too tight for my taste. I could get it on just fine, as I am squishier, and a little smaller than my dress form. If I make something else from Patrones, I will go up a size to give myself more wearing ease. This did not bother me particularly. It is a pity the blouse did not turn out, but as I said, I'm glad I made a toile.
The Khaliah Ali pattern does give a finished pattern measurement, bust 99cm for 12 B, 102cm for 12D indicating a lot of ease. My Boo to Simplicity is for their inconsistency. Ease was not the only issue with the Khalia Ali blouse, it was quite different in shoulder, neck and bust fit from other Simplicity patterns I have been using for years. I will steer clear of patterns with names on them in future. This pattern starts at a size 6, bust 83cm. How anyone is supposed to know that Khaliah Ali written on the pattern means the draft is plus sized is beyond me. Is she famously plus sized in America? - fine, but I bought this pattern in Australia.
I think I will make some more pyjamas.