Thank you for the commiseration and encouragement re the Patrones failure. I threw away the traced pattern and toile in a fit of pique, so I may require considerable enthusiasm before attempting it again.
Today I have finished my "easy" Simplicity pattern. I made this up in a purple floral print, cotton, to co-ordinate with my purple skirt. I am very grateful for all the more adventurous suggestions for colour co-ordination, but my fabric stash is surprisingly limited in these colours, considering the size of it! I have exciting purchasing plans in the pipeline.
I bought this pattern as my last choice in a "buy 3 for $21 sale" at my local fabric shop, which is what passes for a pattern bargain in Australia.
My thought, when selecting this pattern was useful work blouse.
I think this is what I have. It would be quite reasonable to suppose, that having achieved the planned outcome with this pattern, I would be a happy seamstress. Unfortunately, today the only seamstress in this house is very grumpy. Be warned. Read on at your own risk.
I have made many Simplicity patterns in the past. I know how to alter them to make them fit me, knowledge that has been acquired painfully and expensively, through the production of many wadders. This pattern did not fit like a Simplicity pattern.
I should have read the 13 reviews at pattern review before trying this pattern. These are mixed. There are a few give away raves "Usually I make a lot of alterations but this one fit straight out of the envelope" and several give away dismal failures "far too big" " shoulders very wide" "did not finish the shirt".
The Kahliah Ali pattern seems to use a different draft that is loose, very loose, and has enormously wide shoulders, extra large, boobies with considerable separation, and is very long in the body. This is probably the perfectly fitting blouse for Kahliah Alia, if she is the lady in the pattern photograph, without a peg at the back of the blouse, but why doesn't the pattern envelope say that the draft is different?
According to the pattern envelope measurements, I should make a size 12 in Simplicity patterns, using my high bust and hip measurement. The finished measurements for size 12 D in this pattern would give me 7 inches of ease at the bust. I prefer a more fitted blouse, as IMO 7 inches of ease in an allegedly semi-fitted style garment increases apparent fatness.
My extensive wadder experience has taught me to make a size 10 in Simplicity patterns, with a full bust adjustment.
This blouse has separate bodice pieces for different cup sizes, which was the deciding factor in my purchase. This would suggest a size 12 D for me (continuing to use my high bust measurement- otherwise a 16D, using full bust measurement, which would be quite ridiculously large). According to my previous experience I made a size 10D. It was a very poor fit.
I took 5cm from the front princess lines at bust level and above, 3 cm from each shoulder line, and took the waist in by 5cm. I also made the blouse to my high hip level, which required removal of 10 cm from the length.
(I also made 5 small pleats instead of 3 big ones next to the button placket, and fiddled around with the horizontal stitching across the pleats, but this has nothing to do with the fitting)
There are some pleasing things about this blouse. It was very quick to make. The dressmaker collar has a surprisingly pleasant shape, and overall, this is a Useful blouse. It even looks O.K. with the purple skirt. There are several pattern styling options, I may even use it again, but I remain grumpy about this pattern. Boo to Simplicity from me.