Saturday, 1 January 2011

New Year's Dress, Vogue 1086

It is very pleasing for a seamstress to finish off the year with a resounding success. I had been wanting to try this Tracy Reese Vogue American designer dress for some time, and despite some seriously fussy sewing, I am very pleased with it.

SDC10261

Most of the fussiness was self inflicted. I chose to use a silk cotton batiste that I have been patting in my stash since October 08 (Greenfields, Sydney). It is an unbelievably soft and lustrous fabric, in one of my favourite colours, but terribly slippery and ravelling to sew. I used a number 60 sharp needle, and lots of handbasting in order to manage my fabric, but it was worthwhile.

I was quite nervous about using this precious fabric for an untried pattern, but felt there was not much point in making a toile for the pattern, as it calls for a lightweight fabric, - crepe de chine, batiste or charmeuse, and I had nothing on hand of a similar weight that I was willing to sacrifice. I did a lot of pattern piece measuring before starting to sew, and read all the 16 odd reviews at pattern review.
Reassuringly, most reviewers felt this pattern was quite easy. The common fitting issues were with the plunging neckline, low armholes and loose top. Mindful of these findings, I cut out a size smaller for the top and waist (10) and did not bother with a FBA. I raised the neckline at the front by 7cm, and the armholes by 3cm.
I made a very slight square shoulder adjustment, of 5mm, but no other fitting adjustments. The gathers over the bust, back and both front and back skirt make the fitting fairly forgiving in these areas. Initially I found the neckline gaped at the front, but with lingerie straps acting as a stay at the shoulders, a wider neckline is not only more flattering on me, but prevents gaposis and underwear display.
SDC10258
I made a few construction changes, due to fully lining the dress. I did not need to use the facings, or zipper bindings, as I was able to construct the bodice inside out, then topstitch the neckline and armscye edges, and to hand sew the skirt lining to the zipper tapes.
SDC10257
I love this dress. It is very comfortable to wear, and the fabric is quite beautiful in real life.

18 comments:

Debra Martin said...

I love that color! The fabric looks like it would be difficult to control. You did an amazing job with it. What a great way to start the new year :)

Carolyn said...

You did an amazing job with this dress, and it looks lovely on you! A very nice choice!
Hmmm, purple is becoming a recurring feature in your wardrobe, right? Good thing, because it is a fabulous colour for your complexion.

Happy New Year K!

Sue said...

I have looked at this pattern a lot but not committed but after seeing your fabulous version, I may need to take the leap!

Uta said...

Gorgeous! The dress is just the right amount of body conscious without being skin tight, and it looks great on you. (Lovely color, too!)

KID, MD said...

Absolutely beautiful!!

Lisa said...

You look wonderful! Love that color.

sewing spots said...

Truly lovely! Congrats on your accomplishment!

sewabeginner said...

I detect a purple sewing theme here. Are you a fellow purple lover?!? Your dress is gorgeous. Happy new year!

Ruthie said...

Oh! Its absolutely lovely Karen!!!

Shannon said...

Perfect style, perfect colour...perfect on you!

Mary Nanna said...

So pretty! Isn't the back detail just gorgeous. I'm sure it's comfortable in this hot weather we're having in the southern hemisphere.

sdBev said...

This is so pretty. Is it purple?

Sharon said...

Gorgeous colour and your dress looks so fresh and cool.

velosewer said...

I love the dress and you've managed to make it fit beautifully. Glad to see you overcame the 'toile then fashion fabric' hesitation. It takes guts. Lovely dress.

Blue Oyster Kilt said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Debbie said...

Wow- what a gorgeous version of this dress. I have the pattern and fabric for it in my stash. Time I got onto it...

Audrey said...

This dress is definitely a resounding success. The style and beautiful purple color looks wonderful on you.

Sue said...

Beautiful!