Sunday, 17 April 2011

A series of sewing disappointments that did not end too badly McCalls 3923

In mid-week, I received the April Burda magazine. I quite liked this issue, and picked out a few things to make straight away, which usually means, in the next 12 months.
This weekend, I was all organized to make a whole outfit from the April Burda- nice easy sewing, a long 6 gore skirt with welt pockets, worn with a short sleeved mock turtleneck top. I picked out the fabrics, and was all set to go on Saturday, except that I could not find the magazine.
2 hours later, I had an unnaturally tidy sewing room, but no Burda. I was a bit annoyed.
Instead, I had this McCall's pattern, which I last made in 1989. It would be out-of-date.


Risking datedness and dowdiness, I went ahead with the McCalls skirt, view A, adding about 3 cm to the longest length to mimic my vague memory of the Burda model photo. Unfortunately I did not have quite enough fabric. It was cut at an angle, so that I thought I had enough fabric, but was actually about 10cm short at one end. 1 of the side gores was too short. To make the skirt symmetrical, I trimmed back another 2 gores, then added a 10cm band to the bottom of the 4 side gores.
My next rather frustrating episode was the attempt at the welt pockets. The fabric is a rayon/poly woven. I bought it over the internet thinking it was a knit - entirely my mistake. It is a woven. A ravelly, not very stable woven, with a faux suede type hand.
I had some trouble with the ravelling whilst attempting a ribbon welt pocket, per Kenneth King. The short ends were unco-operative at turning under. Instead they disintegrated when I breathed near them. There was also a 1/4 inch operator error in the application of the welts. To overcome these nasty issues, I satin stitched over the short ends, and decided that I had really intended to have an exposed zip with sort of weltish things at the sides only.


It almost looks intentional.

Next I applied the waistband. You may be amazed to hear that this was quite straightforward. I started to think that the sewing Gremlins had done enough work for one day, and might have knocked off. I used the vintage button for the outside, and also attached the inside underlap of the waistband with a less pretty button. I used an invisible zip for the side seam fastening.


Overall, I am not sure if this skirt looks more 2011, or 1989.
I suspect the latter. Regardless, it will be a nice warm skirt for a trip down south, if worn with a petticoat and my Wellington warm tights. (You can't see the welt pockets because they are almost on the side seams - my husband took the photo, so no side shots, I am missing my teenage photography team)
Next I am making a long sleeved mock turtleneck from Burda Style 09-2010 - unless my April Burda shows up before I cut it out.


sewing spots said...

I think your skirt style is timeless! It looks lovely on you. Your zipper fix is so clever!

K.Line said...

With a fitted, short waist turtle neck and a pair of boots (stacked heel or even flat - but knee height with good drape in the leather), this will transcend the decades!

Mary said...

Beautiful fabric and a lovely skirt. I agree with K.Line above-boots and a short waisted top will be called for.

sdBev said...

Cheers for the great recovery. The zip pockets do look intentional! If you analyze it, there aren't many differences between fashions in the last 40-50 years. All it takes is a few tweaks for our oldest patterns to be new again.

Mary Nanna said...

I would find that a howlingly frustrating experience, but hey, new skirt and tidy sewing room. That's not a bad outcome, is it?

Anonymous said...

Gorgeous skirt. I love the exposed zippers. Definitely 2011

Gail said...

Love the fabric. Definitely team it with boots, and I'd use a belt too.

Carolyn said...

Nice save! I wouldn't have believed there had been so many troubles if you hadn't mentioned them. The zip looks entirely intentional, and the satin stitch? barely noticeable!
The skirt is wonderfully cosy looking for winter, and I hope that magazine turns up!

MareeAlison said...

I like your skirt. I think a gored pattern can't really change that much over time, can it. Interestingly though, for me anyway, at the most recent Bernina Club meeting I attended when they were discussing skirt embellishments and skirts generally, the two women demonstrating commented about how they never use (or see in shops) waistbands anymore. They simply bind the waists or use petersham facings. I think I'm going to try this in future. I want a couple of skirts for winter. Thanks for sharing your skirt with us.

Imaan said...

I like it and paisley prints- love those!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

The zipper looks totally intentional, and the exposed zip updates the look. Win-win!

Janine said...

I like it . I hope you get to wear and enjoy it at some time . PS Did you check your DD`s rooms for your Burda magazine.

Handmade said...

Great skirt - well done - yep Boots and a Belt and off you go!!