Sunday, 22 May 2011

Burda Style 1-2011-107 blouse

Whilst looking through my Burda magazines for a work-suitable blouse, I was strongly attracted to 1-2011-107. It was the collar.
Here is the blouse.

Here is the line drawing.


Neither of which display the real attraction.


I had never seen a collar like this before.


I love the drafting - can you see how the shortened collar stand exactly matches the front yoke seam. This was ridiculously pleasing to me. Unfortunately the collar was quite unexciting once I had finished it. The collar does sit up a little better than a dressmaker collar at the back, but looks exactly like a dressmaker collar in the front. I think a collar with a full stand does look more smart and crisp.
The rest of the blouse was sort of ho-hum at first. This is a trial version, so the fabric is mere quilting cotton, which apparently displays my lack of sophistication, and fabric stash. The first is correct and the other, misleading. I quite like to sew with quilting cotton.
The teenage fashion panel think it is a little fattening. I think it will be better when the fabric softens a bit with multiple washes, and much better in a lawn version.
There is a lot of ease in this pattern for a Burda. I made my standard 38, without my standard FBA, and it is rather loose. I did add extra width to the sleeve at the mid upper arm - gathered with an extra 2 pleats at the cuff, and I did not need this extra room- most unusual for me with Burda. I will adjust this suitably next time and reduce the rugby player effect.
I made my usual square shoulder adjustment, very easily as the shoulder line is marked on the pattern piece, Yay. I added a lining to the yoke so that I could use my favourite yoke by machine method. I also took the darts in at the waist.
I put on the petersham ribbon trim at the button band, as called for in the pattern, but suspect this makes the blouse look a little wonkily home-made. It would look even more wonky, had I lapped it in a feminine direction. You do not want to see the underneath button band. Buttonholes in petersham ribbon are not my forte.
I left off the interfacing at the button bands, as in my opinion, interfacing + petersham ribbon would be stiffening overkill. I did a lot more finishing by hand than the pattern called for. I hand stitched the inner collar, the inner buttonbands, the inner sleeve plackets and the inner cuffs. This made me consider how it would be useful to improve my topstitching techniques. Oh well.

I think I will wear it more often with the collar open.


I have a whole work outfit from my last two projects, and am feeling incredibly virtuous as a result. This is a sure sign that a chiffon break out is imminent.

Here is the back view of the blouse with the action pleat.
See, Very Useful. I am amazed that I actually enjoyed sewing it. Why is it that my sewing pleasure seems inversely related to the utility of the garment?


a little sewing said...

Oh I like that collar, too! And for me that is a good one to try since I like something to support the the collar on my longer neck.

You made me laugh - the chiffon sees you are now in a moment of weakness and will pounce, for sure!

Elaray said...

That collar and stand was quite a challenge to me when I first encountered it. Now that I'm familiar with it, I like it!

KID, MD said...

It looks wonderful, even in quilting cotton. It will be fabulous in lawn. I was looking at this blouse last night! I think I'm just going to follow along and sew whatever you do. It seems to be working for me. :)

Kyle said...

You do such great work!!

liza jane said...

Yes, I think it looks really nice open. I really like the ribbon detail. And the back pleat is nice, too.

Debbie Cook said...

I like it in the quilting cotton too. Nice pattern with a lot of interesting details!

Carolyn said...

Hehe, imminent chiffon breakout...!
The collar is pretty wonderful. I share your love for matching up seams. And absolutely nothing wrong with quilting cotton... your blouse is just lovely

shams said...

Very cute and very flattering on you!

Mary Nanna said...

I have also ear marked this blouse to try but I decided I would do without the back vent and fold it out - but I like how it looks made up so probably I won't. It's very pretty and with a softer fabric it will be even more pretty. Good to know about the arm bands - I would have added more room out of habit too.

Carol said...

If I ever get back in my sewing room I have a jacket cut out with the same collar. I've made one before and with the usual Burda instructions, I did a lot of headscratching, but I eventually figured it out. I love the way it sits. Your blouse is very pretty.

Gail said...

I love the precision of Burda patterns too. Like German cars, the engineering is sheer perfection. Your blouse looks lovely. I'll look at this pattern next time I'm in a blousing mood.

Sharon said...

Very pretty blouse and interesting collar. I like the quilting cotton and as you say it will soften with washing.

Little Hunting Creek said...

Very pretty - and I feel virtuous when I make something useful too. Then I start thinkiing about silk pajamas or ruffles and stuff.
I like the collar too!

Mary said...

What a great blouse-make more! I like the pleat, the ribbon, and the collar draft. Love the print you chose in the quilting cotton (which I see nothing wrong with.

Gabrielle said...

Yes, that IS a nice collar (thanks for pointing it out), and the ribbon is very interesting too. This looks lovely on you, and what great planning to have made something that looks so well balanced with the trousers you'd just made!

Bernice said...

This blouse has some lovely details. The ribbon is a nice touch. I would definitely be pleased with the whole outfit.

Ruthie said...

Oh what a VERY nice blouse. The contrast brown is a great detail. Its especailly good with the open neckline where it makes the Y shape.