Saturday, 11 June 2011

Burda Style Skirt, with Elastic Contour waist finish.

Another victim of the insects-under-the-bed was a trouser suitable length of brown wool, in a coarse weave. With judicious cutting, I managed to fit a straight skirt on the hole-less pieces.
The fabric ravels in an indiscriminate manner, and I didn't enjoy sewing with it very much. I am almost grateful to the insects for munching so much of it.


The pattern is Burda Style 02-2011-107. I was inspired to make this particular skirt by Dawn's post, in which she describes her use of an elastic contour waist finish, as detailed in Threads, September 2008, to support the high waist. I had used this technique previously, with mixed results, but thought Dawn's application of the technique above the natural wasitline would work much better than my earlier attempts. Please, if you are comparing the skirts, remember that this particular skirt is definitely not a size 34, like the reviews at pattern review. This is a flattering skirt for a curvy person (size 40, with generous backside allowance added - very useful back panels for this adjustment are present in the pattern. The waist is about size 38, skinner at the back). My version has an added front central seam for insect avoidance reasons, and I used no seam allowances at the waistline, or hem, length B, to allow for my short waistedness and short leggedness.

I like the fit of the skirt. I am not thrilled with the elastic contour waist again. This time I followed Dawn's photos, where the elastic is applied to the right side of the outer fabric (lining underneath for me), which gives a doubled over edge of elastic at the waist seam.
I think my elastic was too stiff for this technique. It did not like being doubled over on itself, and was only tamed into position by understitching (3 step zig zag).
Later I tried this technique on another garment, using bridging stitch that just caught the elastic, so when the fabric was turned right sides outwards, the elastic was not folded, and I prefered the turn achieved in this way.

Despite my unhappiness with the elastic. I have worn this skirt 3 times in the past 10 days. The waistband is comfortable, if gappy, and having the unfortunate tendency to stand up directly from my hips,

I must have been in desperate need of a brown winter skirt in my wardrobe. I plan to use this pattern again, and to keep fiddling with contour waistbands. I will look out for soft and forgiving wide elastic. I will also work on my photography.
How is this for an edgy country town decay background? ;)
Aren't you glad I did not attempt daily photography for Me-Made-June?
Maybe I should work a little more on my photography.


Gail said...

I'm not sure if it is just the photograph but there appears to be extra bulk in the waistband. Otherwise the shape is very flattering.

Ruthie said...

Skirt looks pretty good to me but I do get what you mean about the waistband. The last photo is more about the building and not enough about your outfit, so great if you are there for a sense of scale, but you know, not so great for those of us who wanna see the clothes. :-) Ruthie

Mary Nanna said...

The skirt looks great and I'm sure you'll be very satisfied when you can sort out the elastic issues to make it 'just so'.

Good photographs on blogs are a real skill and one which I want to improve too - but the reality is, to bring it all together, hair, make up, lighting, styling the shoot - takes way more time than I have.

So I just say, "it has to be this way for now" - and really, sometimes those blogs with impeccable photos can be very intimidating, Isn't it nice to have "approachable and friendly' photography? That's how I sell it to myself, anyway!

Anonymous said...

That skirt looks great on you. And I am very glad to see it on someone only two sizes removed from my own, rather than 5 or 6!

I know what you mean about photos (seen the shockers on my blog?)... Actually yours are fine, except for that last arty one where we can't see anything useful like your clothes or your construction methods.


velosewer said...

Your skirt looks great. I'll try that technique, especially is it's above the waist. Thank you. And you look good in the skirt.