Sunday, 5 June 2011

BWOF 10-2008-116 Jacket. A cautionary tale.

I do not tend to plan my sewing in great detail, or very far ahead. However, under the influence of the SWAP at Stitchers Guild. I had planned to sew this jacket for my 2009 winter wardrobe.
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I bought fabric specifically for this project, a gorgeous piece of cashmere and wool knit from Michael's Fabrics. It was on sale, but still a rather extravagant purchase for me.
I was too scared to cut it. I procrastinated, and ran out of 2009 winter.
Last winter was rather mild, and I didn't sew many warm clothes. This winter is already far colder than any I can rememeber in this location. I got out my fabric, improperly stored under my son's bed, where I am ashamed to admit that due to the slovenliness of 8 an year old boy and his disorganized mother, it sometimes shares space with dirty school uniforms and unemptied lunch boxes, and found this....
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The silver lining to this dastardly attack was that I instantly lost all fear of cutting my fabric. It was already ruined.
I washed the fabric, hung it on the line, inspected it closely with the sun behind it, and marked the thin spots and holes with tailors'chalk. Somehow, I managed to cut out most of the pieces without holes, using a single thickness layout and very thin seam allowances. I did need to do a little darning, but am fairly happy that most of this is not visible - where it was, I disguised it with an embroidered leaf - this one is under the left armscye.

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Fortunately for me, my procrasination gave me the opportunity to benefit from several excellent reviews of the pattern at patternreview. (Thanks KayY and MaryNanna). I knew to add a back centre seam for sway back adjustment, add a FBA, and that lengthening the sleeves would look just fine. Off my own bat, I added a square shoulder adjustment. I did not make a toile. I have given up on toiles for knit fabrics.

Due to insect attack, I did not have quite enough fabric for the front facings, but was able to find an appropriate substitute by cutting off the skirt from this dress. (I needed another knit top anyway)
For the neck facing, I benefited from the Slapdash Sewist's post showing a nifty technique for a clean facing finish .
I cut out the interfacing with a bottom seam allowance included, and sewed it by this method, right side together with the facing, then turning and fusing.

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I am very pleased with the neat finish. I wish I had thought of this brilliant idea! I catch stitched by hand the yoke facing to the seam, to allow a little stretchiness in the seam.
I found the sleeves a little too boule for me at the wrist, and extended the pleats to the mid forearm. I added 2 more pleats to take in the sleeve a little more.
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I also left off the belt loops.

I really like this jacket.
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It is just as comfortable as my polar fleece Kermit jacket, but I think it looks much more smart.
I will have to save up for some more cashmere knit. Next time I will not leave it under my son's bed.

13 comments:

Mary said...

Great jacket! I love the lines, the color and your genius save of a potential sewing disaster. I store fabric in the attic off my sewing room and check for visitors often-shudder.

a little sewing said...

I don't know where to start, there are so many things l like about the jacket and the journey from under the bed to on your body. I adore the embroidered leaf! And, a smart jacket that is comfortable? Big Win for you!

Well done!

Ruthie said...

Nice jacvket - a happy hybrid of comfort and style. Clever insect damage management!

Mary Nanna said...

Love the embroidered leaf - what a great save! Now that I see this on you, I'm thinking I must make it again - it is such a great shape and the arm details are really interesting!

Gail said...

Great pattern for a simple casual jacket. Don't feel too bad about your fabric storage. I started cutting some pure wool that had been in the cupboard for 20 years (ridiculous, yes) to find that the moths had made a meal of it. Weep!

Audrey said...

Nice save on the fabric. It made a lovely jacket.

Carol said...

Yes, I like this, too. I just made a jacket (which I will blog about soon) from a poorly stored length of silk/wool. Not only was it subject to insect attack but, sadly, there was a little rodent activity. Oh, the joys of warm climates and country living. I have traced this same jacket but still haven't gotten around to making it. Maybe this winter ...

Sharon said...

Gorgeous jacket and love all the style lines. Great save with the fabric.

Joy said...

So nice. I really like this style.

Sigrid said...

Great save on this fabric. You made a lovely jacket. Every time I browse my Burda's, this jacket speaks to me. Lovely to see it made up (again). Must give it a go sometime.

Sew Passionista said...

A great job on this jacket. So glad you were able to make the best of a sad situation.

velosewer said...

Love this jacket on you. It's a great shape and looks stylish.

Handmade said...

Great jacket - you're very clever in so many ways! Can you help me again with a fabric source? I'm after some good quality polar fleece - something like the fabric Mountain Designs uses .... I recall your previous posts about sewing outdoor gear, and I recall that you mentioned an online shop in the USA.... thanks in anticipation!