Monday, 12 September 2011

Burda Style 02-2011-107 and that Threads contour elastic waist, yet again

I fear I am repetitive. This is my the third version of this skirt, 02-2001-107.
The Burdaesque photograph where you cannot really see the skirt was the idea of my 14 year old photographer. She was feeling creative, who am I to argue?

SAM_0932


I like the fit of the skirt, having worn version 1 at least twice a week since I made it in June. Version 2 suffered from fabric failure - I whipped it up in a brown crinkly mystery remnant with gold bits that I bought from Kerryn's Fabric World, wore it out the same evening to the opening of an Instutitute of which my husband is a board member, and the fabric split in 4 places by the end of the evening! The skirt was not even tight, so I was fairly cross about it.
Fortunately, I was wearing my knee length velvet coat over the top, as it was hideously cold in this 1890's building, so the fabric failure was only evident to me. Whew, that was a close one! I had planned to take photographs of the garment the next morning for the blog, but I'm sure you are glad that I thought better of it.
SAM_0921
This version is a nod to my rather large pile of unsewn winter projects. A skirt from this fabric has been in my mental sewing list for the last 2or 3 winters. The fabric is a loose cotton and wool blend that I bought when Textilestudio was selling off their stock, and I love the colours and print, despite the unecessary attention drawing qualites of such a fabric over my behind. Note that I am not showing you a back view ;). Maybe I should wear my coat with this one too.
I have cleverly turned Burda's fashionable high wasited skirt into a very basic pattern by chopping off most of the height of the waist, and making the length just above the knee instead of mid calf. I have lined the skirt and not used a waist facing.

Once again, I attempted the contour elastic waistband from Threads, September 2008 for this skirt.

SAM_0915

This time, I sewed a thinner, more flexible elastic to the seam allowance of the waistband seam, stretching it very slightly. The elastic is between the outer and lining fabrics. I then topstitched, stretching the elastic again.

SAM_0937

The elastic is sewn down to the zipper tapes through both lining and outer fabric, using stab stitching. The elastic pulled too much when sewn to just the lining fabric (polycotton batiste).
SAM_0916
I added an inner button tab, idea taken some years ago from Sue (her tabs are much neater and do not have crooked buttonholes), to help support the elastic and also to hide the v I had left at the top of the zipper due to topstitching too far.
SAM_0946

This waist looks less bulky than my previous attempts, but I am not completely sold on this method. Maybe elastic waists are just not my cup of tea.
I am making the skirt again in a light denim. I might try a facing this time, just for a change.

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20 comments:

Sharon said...

Gorgeous skirt, love the pattern and colours. Thank you for reminding me that I can reduce the height of the waistband.

Sue said...

Love the fabric and cut of this skirt. I must start reading my Threads magazines a bit better.

Ruthie said...

Very smart skirt. Annoying about the one where the fabric split, some fabrics just are not worth the time spent sewing them up.

Uta said...

The skirt looks very nice. I wouldn't think that it draws too much attention (and what if it did? you look very nice!), due to the muted colors and the detailed pattern that "keeps the eye moving". I must try the waistband method; my skirts move up and down a lot depending on when I last had a full meal.

katherine h said...

I say encourage your photographer...wiling photographers are hard to come by. I read the elastic waistband article in Threads and it never really appealed to me as a construction method. I say if you've tried several times and it hasn't worked, perhaps it is time to move on.

The skirt is lovely, but I especially love the red top on you. I know that you have blogged about it previously, but I don't think we saw it on you?

Gail said...

It works, so why change the pattern? You look so stylish and the photography first rate.

Mary Beth said...

You look gorgeous in the skirt and top combo. I agree that playing with waistbands can be a constant learning process, esp given that some bodies also constantly change.
Fabric failure...thank goodness for long coats. Been there, unhappily..sigh....
Hey, I've been trying to remember the name of the store where I bought the fabric used in my latest project: TextileStudio! Thanks :)

Clio said...

Great skirt! THis pattern has been on my list for a while. I wonder if you just added the elastic from the side seams to the zipper (ie: just on the back waist) if that would eliminate some of the bulk and yet retain the stay-put quality of the elastic? Maybe then you wouldn't get that ridge in the front? That said, VERY nice anyway!

Audrey said...

I love this skirt and especially the fabric you used. Fall colors including my favorite, red, and a neat paisley jacquard. The whole outfit looks lovely.

Shannon said...

The skirt looks great on you! I'll have to go dig through my Threads back issues. That elastic method looks like something I might like.

Mary Nanna said...

Beautiful skirt in beautiful colours. Love the "mood" photography - I always think not being able to see the garments properly adds to their allure - we all like a little mystery in our lives.

As a side note, split skirt seams could have been an opportunity to sport some jaunty underwear. I saw a teenager wearing a transparent lace dress yesterday with boy underpants underneath. She was utterly self conscious about the look - reminiscent of Gucci- so she pulled it off. Maybe that and her youth.

Carolyn said...

Repetitive, after only three uses? I don't call that repetitive, yet!
It looks very smart, and I love the print. But I am with you on elastic waistbands, they are not usually my cup of tea either, because in my hands they end up really bunchy and bulky. However I could not detect any bunching or bulkiness at all in your skirt here. You've obviously worked out how to do this beautifully.
Re the fabric malfunction on the other skirt, Oh dear, how depressing! After all that work making it... But Mary Nanna's solution made me smile.

Lily said...

Love the skirt. Gorgeous fabric. I have something similar wool crepe. The fit is brilliant.

Bernice said...

Cute skirt. I must say that top looks stunning in you. I think red might be one of your colours. The story about the fabric failure did make me laugh. I wore a new camisole top to a morning tea once only to have one of the straps come undone. Sat their the whole time with it wrapped around my bra strap feeling very self-conscious! Since that time, I always feel nervous wearing something for the first time to work. I usually give them a test drive on a home or kindy day first. Once bitten, twice shy.

Bernice said...

Cute skirt! I must say that top looks gorgeous on you. Red is definitely one of your colours. I remember thinking that when I saw the photo of you in your red seersucker beach throw, so it must be true!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

What a fabulous print for a skirt! So rich. I can only imagine your horror at the version that ripped all night. It is like an actual nightmare.

Handmade said...

Fab skirt - great photos. Shame about that other fabric - quite unbelievable really!

Carol said...

Stunning skirt - shame about the fabric failure. I had that happen once on a sheath dress. It's still in my wardrobe but I don't know what to do with it. I'm a sucker for paisley and this skirt looks great with the top. I'd say just keep wearing it until if falls apart!

gwensews said...

Your skirt is terrific. Love the red criss-cross top with it. Perfect!

Eugenia said...

I love your new skirt! The fabric is beautiful, it looks lovely on you. The splitting skirt sounds very alarming - what a horrid thing for fabric to do!!!