Friday, 25 January 2013

Hot, hot, not - Burda Style 03-2012-108 floaty frock

January weather is always sundress inducing where I live. This year, despite abnormal levels of non-sewing activity, I have an extensive list of sundress patterns on my sewing list. This is an enabling a fortunate effect of having the northern hemisphere seamstresses try out all the Burda patterns for me during our winter.

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Burda Style 03-2012-103 was brought to my attention by the Selfish Seamstress. Now you might think that a sensible woman with areas of considerable bodaciousness would steer firmly away from any frock modelled by a  petite size 34 ballet-dancer-in-her-spare-time, but Selfish not only looked her usual elegant self in her photographs, but was so persuasive in her description of this pattern being adjustable once worn, and was backed up so enthusiastically by the 5 of the 6 other reviewers of this pattern at Patternreview that I rashly got out a bit of cotton lawn stash fabric (London, 2010)I had earmarked for pyjama pants (I am reckless and extravagant at times) and tried it out.


(Technical drawing from French BurdaStyle site)
Keeping to my rash theme, I performed minimal pattern adjustments prior to construction, despite this being drafted in the Burda tall range. The reviewers were 5/6 in remarking that no bodice length adjustment had been required for persons not in the "tall" range. The adjustments I did make pre construction were to widen the back skirt from the hips up, and add darts to the back waist of the skirt, as the one reviewer  who mentioned the back of the dress offered a description of "hot mess" due to "no shaping". I also cut out the skirt to my knee length, which is very fabric saving compared to Burda's.

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During constuction I followed the Burda sewing lesson instructions, adding bias binding  finishing to the facings, and eliminating the back bodice lining, as I was short of fabric (I also pieced the back facing for this reason).I topstitched the armscye edges and back neck edge.

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  I found that the back bodice did not line up with the front bodice at the waist, which is unusual for Burda's excellent drafting, so I assumed this was operator error until I saw that Judy Williment had also mentioned finding this when she made up the pattern.
I sometimes need to shorten above bust bodice height in regular Burda patterns. For this pattern, after construction I found that I needed to shorten the bodice between shoulder and bust/shoulder blades both front and back.  I also had to lower the armscye and the back neck after my shortening.
I did not do a full bust adjustment, something I am always keen to avoid despite frequent fitting disasters. I must be lazy. This lack of FBA looks fine in the photos, as the outer bodice has plenty of fabric which is designed to fall into folds over the bust, but unfortunately, although the facing extends only to the upper bust, the lower bust folds are backed by a standard bust size lining/stay, which is not drafted for a D. I was able to retrofit for modesty by widening the empire line bodice gap through which the upper bodice is passed, and tacking the overlap with the original folds moving over a few centimetres to extend the lining so that the neckline crossed higher and further across, but in retrospect, adjusting the lining for bust size,  would have made this fit better.

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Post construction, I took the upper bodice in at the back waist, and added lingerie keepers at the shoulders, as there was considerable strap peekage.

I was quite happy with the dress. It is a different shape for me, but so cool and light to wear. In fact, I thought it was perfect until one half of the teenage fashion panel plead with me not to wear it out of the house, and the other half did not try at all to smother her giggles.
Hmmph!

Here is the flattering side view.
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Here is a more realistic side view.

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I appealed to my occasionally diplomatic husband but he gave it a definite thumbs down as well. So I am not  making another one, which was my original plan.
However, despite the side view problems, I am very happy to have a cool, floaty, albiet unflattering and maternity looking dress to wear about the house (and outside, as you can see here) in this very hot weather.



25 comments:

Sharon said...

I did wonder about the excess fabric in the front, however perfect dress for a hot day.

Karin said...

I think it looks really nice. Cool and loose, but still with waist definition. I'm surprised your family don't like it. Men and kids- always a mystery!

fabric epiphanies said...

I am surprised your family don't like it as well. I think it looks lovely on you.

Carol said...

I agree with the others; I think this dress looks really lovely on you. Perhaps your family just aren't used to you trying this style? Oh, well, even if you just wear it as a cool dress for around the house it looks great!

Ripple Dandelion said...

Another vote for the dress suiting you actually very well. Silly family! Love the colors and print.

Steph A said...

I was thinking the same thing as the others! I think it looks lovely, and I was really surprised by your family's response!! It looks like a great sun-dress, cool yet nicely shaped (as in, NOT baggy!). The back looks great, those adjustments you did sure make a difference.

T. Sedai said...

I think the dress looks very nice! I made this pattern last year, but I made it in a knit, and I think the fabric was a bit clingier, so perhaps that helped me avoid the maternity look? Anyway, it looks like a great dress for a warm day and I say you should ignore the family vote because you look great in it.

Sue said...

Wow! Your family are serious fashion police. I am with the other commenters in that I think it looks lovely on you!

SewRuthie said...

Doesn't look very maternity to me.

Jane said...

Looks lovely. You should ignore your family!

Summer Flies said...

Vote here for ignoring family opinions also. I love it. I think it looks great and I love the fabric. Cool summer dress has (up until yesterday) been an absolute necessity around here.

velosewer said...

Well, let the family know they're not to look at you side on. They can only view from front on only, with a slight zoolander head tilt.
When it come down to it, it's how you feel about wearing this dress. If you don't like it, there are plenty of other sundresses calling your name:)

Patricia said...

Perhaps they are just really flattering photos but I don't see what is wrong with it. It looks lovely and cool and you do not look like even your first trimester.

pdiddly said...

I too like it on you - family eh

gMarie said...

I think it's charming. I don't even think the horrible side view is horrible. I say wear it! g

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I would never have guessed this post was leading up to a thumbs down! I think it looks lovely on you. The side view really isn't bad, and who stares at you from the side but has never seen you from the front? Gorgeous fabric.

Sue said...

Actually I like it on you, never mind the family!

Bernice said...

Harsh panel! I wonder what your family doesn't like about it. I think it look really nice on you.

Karen said...

Love it! Looks fabulous on you. I have serious teenage fashion police too, and tend to ignore them. Otherwise they'd have me dressed in......well, it doesn't bear thinking about.

gwensews said...

Too bad you aren't loving that dress, because it looks great. Everything need not be form-fitting, especially in your hot climate.

Uta said...

Who defines what is flattering? I love this dress, the shape and the colors look great on you.

tigergirl said...

When I saw the pics in the magazine I thought "maternity", especially on me but I agree with the other posters, I don't think it looks that way on you at all. In fact, I think it looks really good.

Gail said...

I think it looks great too. But agree that the side view is not quite as flattering as the front. Hope you are not adversely affected by the floods.

Malady said...

Your family are clearly crazy - this dress looks lovely on you!!!

Malady said...

Your family must all need eye tests - this dress looks lovely on you. Really lovely - it suits you so well.