Monday, 17 March 2014

Simplicity 1882, an out-to-lunch frock

I had been making this frock for quite a while, but just finished it last week for a lunch date with my mother and daughter.


It was a lovely day out.
I needed the prospect of such a day to finish this, as although I am content with the dress now, it was a bit of a wrestling match to get it to this point.


What attracted me to the pattern was the pleasing collar and interesting pocket flanges of the version photographed for the envelope. I am also a sucker for A_D cup sizing and deceptive blurbs such as "amazing fit", which in this case includes a curvy and slim/average fitting for the skirt and a lot of seaming in the dress which does lend itself to fitting changes. I really have to give Simplicity credit for trying hard to meet the exacting requirements of  the hobby seamstress here!


I really like all the details on this pattern - the curved midriff, the piping, the pleasing neckline and collar.


However, "amazing fit" does not mean "fits me". Cup sizing doesn't mean it fits me in the bust either. My adjustments for this dress were legion, just like they are for any new block. In this case I made one size smaller than my body chart measurements indicate, as the ease was considerable according to the finished pattern measurements, and I also shortened the dress in the bodice, midriff and skirt.

I added an extra dart to the back of the curvy skirt (I must be extra curvy) and also took the dress in by 8cm at the back waist tapering to 3 cm at the back neck,  and 1cm at each side waist seam (remember this is After going down a size).There was some tweaking of the bust fitting, which was not resolved to my satisfaction, and also my standard square shoulder adjustment.
I know why I love the beautifully standardized Burda sizing - at least I know my adjustments there.

In addition to the fitting issues, which are more my problem than Simplicity's - other than the non standard blocks they use, there was some trouble with the pocket flanges.
These did not lie flat, as drafted, and had to be shortened, and also reinforced with stay tape to minimize gaping.

They looked pretty smart with their piping, and I was very pleased with them until I tried the dress on and realised that the visual effect was unpleasingly widening. Sigh.
There was some very fiddly unpicking, and the pockets were refinished with discrete baby piping. Unfortunately, they still gape after you have been sitting down in the dress eating delicious lunch for a few hours. Skirt pockets and I do not make good company.

The collar was also pesky. It looks great at the front, but sticks out at the back. It did this before I took in the back bodice too, so I believe it is a drafting issue.
I might button it down here later if I can be bothered.

I lined the dress, and gave the lining a lace edging.


It feels luxurious.
I predict that this will be a  good wardrobe staple. My last beige linen dress has died an honourable death from fabric wear.

Stashbusting statistics 2009 embroidered linen from Gorgeous fabrics, 2.5m, + 2 m imperial batiste 2009 for lining.


velosewer said...

I can see why you took the time to finish this dress. It so lovely.

fabric epiphanies said...

It is lovely and well worth persevering!

Mary Nanna said...

Wow - it's really pretty on you - great job! So nice for you to have 3 generations of ladies to lunch with.

I have made this dress too. I also did a myriad of fittings and probably around a dozen (no exaggeration) adjustments. It looks very nice on me too, I have to say. The biggest adjustment I made was to join the front pieces and recut the waist piece smaller. I just couldn't imagine that underbust piece doing me any kind of favours.

I think the shape is flattering on you though. I think in my case having uber boobage is a bit like the laws of nanophysics - the rules for what works for a curvy figure change when the size becomes disproportionally small or large.

Dilliander said...

Really lovely Karen, the pleasing collar, baby piping, gorgeous fabric and simple lines are all very flattering with no hint of the drama they took to achieve. I hope you enjoy wearing this as it looks great on you.

Paola said...

I really like this dress on you, it looks great. I have this pattern on my list to make for a wedding in November this year. I know now to allow plenty of time to get the fit right.

Sue said...

Well all the effort was worth it. The dress looks great and the fit looks pretty spot on. I love the subtle white piping and the fabric you chose.

Summer Flies said...

I think your dress is beautiful and worth the effort. I love your fabric. You all look beautiful!

Gail said...

A really striking dress. I loved the photo of the three generations.

Vicki said...

It turned out beautiful and the fit is just right.

Little Hunting Creek said...

Beautiful dress! It looks so nice on you

Catherine Daze said...

It looks like you got the fit perfect in the end despite all the aggravation. It's a very elegant dress.

Carolyn said...

I just love this dress! so ladylike and feminine, the little collar is really pretty. And how gorgeous for you all to enjoy a three generation day out together!

Meigan said...

That was a lot of work, but your dress came out really lovely.

liza jane said...

Very pretty! Those pockets are fabulous, whether they are flattering after sitting or not.

Sharon said...

Lovely dress and so glad you worked out the fitting as it is a very flattering dress!

Tia Dia said...

This is so pretty a dress: chic, classic in line and it fits you perfectly! Well worth all the time that went into it. You look lovely.

a little sewing said...

what a beautiful dress!

a little sewing said...

K, could you please send me an email at alittlesewing at gmail dot com. thanks!! Robin

The Slapdash Sewist said...

This is so adorable! I think it's the little collar that makes it, and your lovely choice of fabric. The three generations look so happy together!

Joy said...

This is such a lovely dress. Your version is much more appealing than the pattern envelope's. The delicate pocket piping (however unintended at first) is cuter than flanges, I think.

Calico Stretch said...

Gosh you look lovely and all the work that went into fitting has paid off as the dress is wonderful. I love the piping, the collar etc.