Vogue 8426 skirt, June Capsule

 

The denim skirt from Vogue 8426 has been on my to do list since I made a brown wool flannel version for my SWAP. I made view c for the SWAP, which has 5 back pleats, and finishes at the upper calf - usually a terrible length for me, but it seems to work in this shape skirt, it is a bit of trumpet shape. I have worn this wool skirt frequently, and always feel good in it. I want the denim version to do the same thing, but for my more casual wardrobe needs. This time I have made view A, which is knee length, and has one back pleat. The fabric I have used is a very heavy cotton denim with no stretch. It is made in Australia (amazing!)and I purchased it at Bundaberg Spotlight, where the staff are extremely helpful and pleasant.

 

Last time I made this skirt I did a lot of fiddling with the fitting after I had constructed the garment. This time I was more sensible, and made some adjustments before cutting out. First I started with a size 12 waist and 14 hip. I modified the back yoke by folding the pattern piece into a dart as shown. I then trimmed a little from the upper center back of this piece to horizontally straighten the centre back. I did not alter the hip curve at the sides during cutting out, but as I do not stick out at the sides as much as the pattern, I used a wider seam allowance - around 2.5cm for the first 7cm of the front hip curve seam, and 5cm for the back hip curve seam. This made the skirt flatter at the sides, but still curve out at the backside, where I need it! I also changed the construction order, sewing all the front, including the yoke, and each side of the back, excluding the pleat, then basting the side seams. I took in the side seams to fit at the waist and below the hips. Although it is not apparent in the envelope drawing, and hard to see on the line drawing, even this short version of the skirt has a slight trumpet shape. This did not work in the denim, and the stiff sticking out hem was unflattering. I took around 7cm from the lower side seams, to make the hem peg slightly, and am inclined to think I could have taken a little more off. I also could have taken a bit more off the waist, but am hoping that the fabric will soften a little with repeated wear and washing.

 

I greatly admired the topstitching on Miriam (HawkeMorningStar's version of the skirt. (see her review on pattern review). I felt that this emphasised the multiple curves of the pattern. The denim has a tan weave through it, rather than classic white, and I have used tan upholstery thread for topstitching to both match the warm colours in the rest of my capsule, and to bring out the tan background of the denim. I topstitched mainly vertical seams, as I did not wish to emphasise horizontal dimensions! The topstitching was very difficult because of the fabric and my needle. For construction, I used a size 90 "jeans" needle, and a 3mm stitch length. This was no problem. Unfortunately, the biggest twin needle I could find was a size 80, 4mm width universal.I used a 4.5mm stitch length. The needle had trouble getting through the seams, and also made the thread fray and snap, so I kept having to cut and rethread, then join the rows of topstitching by hand. However this gave me some good ideas. First, I unpicked the topstitching on the hip curves for a few cm before sewing the side seams, then hand stitched so that the topstitching matched perfectly across the seams. I also used this idea to manage the pleat. I topstitched down each side of the invisible zip and the back seam to just above the pleat, and topstitched along the pleat edge on each side until I could not avoid the under lay, then I handstitched the join, and I am very happy with the final look of the topstiching here.

 

I like this skirt, and think I will like it even more when the denim softens a little. I think it gives a lot of "smart" to my casual wardrobe.

Vogue 8426 skirt

 

This skirt is part of my Winter Indulgence SWAP. I chose this pattern because the skirt of my wardrobe pattern, V2925, has a curved seam over the hip, that I thought was very flattering on me. I hoped that the straight skirt with back pleats would be equally as flattering, and also look as if it was part of the wardrobe and match well with the jacket by having a similar design feature. I looked up the pattern on patternreview and it had been reviewed favourably by LauraLo, Erica.B and HawkeMorningStar, among others, so I felt in very good company, although somewhat doubtful that my skirt would turn out as well as theirs.

 

 

The pattern was very straightforward, but, like HawkeMorningStar, I found that it was rather big. It would have fit me quite well in a straight 12, with only a little tweaking at the waist, but of course I made things difficult for myself by cutting out a larger size "just in case". The only real change I made to the pattern was to interface all the pleat lines, so that my soft wool flannel would hold the shape properly. I used prowoven interfacing for this, pinking the edges so as not to have lines showing through to the right side. I also interfaced the zip line with proweft interfacing, and used an invisible zip. I finished the facing and hem with bias binding. On the hem, I used a method that I think comes from Lauralo's blog, of stretching the bias binding as I applied it, so that when it relaxes it pulls the hem in slighty, making it very easy to turn to the inside and hand sew. I am pleased with this skirt, and plan to make another version in some muted red denim that is lurking in my stash ready for a casual winter skirt.

 

My sewing today was limited. We had a very social weekend, enabling me to wear 3 different SWAP outfits (the casual ones). I mended a tiny amount, then made a rashie swimmer top for my son. We are going on a long weekend kayaking trip in a fortnight, and his 3rd summer rashie has just given up the ghost. I worked a bit on his giraffe pyjamas, but am a bit stumped about how to make a long neck. He may need to be a short necked giraffe!

Finish Line in Sight SWAP2 and 3

I had a very productive sewing day today. My in laws took the children out for the day, and I did not have to go in to work. I sewed all day, it was great. I finished my vogue skirt 8426, except for the hand sewn hem, which I think I can do during some waiting around time tomorrow.


I also completely finished a straight skirt, front and back darts that I did not know I was making until this morning. I made this because after I laid out all my items, I realized that another bottom was all I needed to achieve 2 SWAPS that meet the requirements (I knew I would be pretty close before laying them out, as I have sewn so many clothes, I just wasn't sure if I could meet the requirements twice). I have enough finished items to have officially finished both of my SWAPS (other than the hem). The only reason I have two sets of SWAP clothes is my poor planning in the early stages, and I would not recommend it as a plan! I did really need the clothes.
However, I am still sewing for the SWAP because I would like to use a dress in my indulgence plan. This was part of my earliest planning, and I have previously made a trial version and am happy with the fit. I am sure this will look better in my official wardrobe than the knit top it will replace. The dress is McCall's 5177.
This evening I finished the smocked insert I will use in the bodice. I have been working on this on and off as my portable handwork since I finished knitting the cardigan. It is my first attempt at using smocking in a non ling erie garment for myself. I hope it will not look too juvenile.
 
This evening I cut out the dress, using a linen from Michael's Fabrics, and a china silk from Gorgeous Fabrics. I have cut out the skirt and sleeves on the bias, and have tried the underlining method described by Laura lo on the sleeves. My plan is to get up early and do a little sewing before I go to work, which should leave me ample time to finish the SWAP before the cut off date.