Pyjama/lounging shorts BurdaStyle 11-2009-132

 Christmas sewing deadlines are approaching, and I am really enjoying the sewing. The extra push to finish these easy items is very motivating, and I feel quite productive.

This pyjama short pattern is another old favourite, Burda Style 11-2009-132

   technical drawing from BurdaStyle.com.ru

My standard alterations are to raise the waistline and add an internal waistband to both allow the shorts to sit higher on the waist and to allow for a nice 1" wide piece of elastic at the back. I also lengthen the legs a tad so that they sit at mid thigh, or lower. Sometimes I use the piped double hem, sometimes I don't.

This year I've gone wear-all-day-pyjama-friendly (you all know why) and have added lined patch pockets to the front of the pyjamas, in a phone friendly size. Only the girl's young women's pyjamas have these as my son claimed that pockets in his pyjamas would be superfluous. These shorts are again victims of my excessively tidied finishing techniques with French seams at the inner legs and bias bound Hong Kong seams at the outer leg seams and the crotch. They do look pretty inside.

 

I've only made four pairs of women's shorts this year,I like sewing pyjamas, but if the number required is too high, the pleasure decreases dramatically, so only one niece, my two daughters and my son's girl friend have made the female list.

 

The first pair is for one of my Melbourne nieces, who can't use soaps/bubble bath/body lotion from online shopping (all my other nieces have very similar un handmade presents this year-). I posted these to her 8 days ago, 2 days before the domestic postage Christmas deadline, and they haven't arrived yet. Post is really really slow this year.  

Cotton medium weight shirting, The Fabric Place, about 2012

I'm entering these items in the Fabric Stash Challenge at Pattern Review, hence the fabric provenance listed below. I would like some more room in my fabric collection for new fabric acquisition.

For my elder daughter

 

Quilting cotton- I think it was from Lincraft about 3 years ago

For my younger daughter

 

Cotton plaid from Fabric Mart, at least 5 years ago

 For my son's girlfriend

Quilting cottons, the contrast from JoAnne's Fabric Michigan USA 1997 - and the main fabric from Stitch Bliss, 2009

 

I've used Imperial Batiste for the pocket linings and some of the inner waistbands - from a roll purchased in 1996. 

I took some trouble with the pattern matching of the pockets, and am quite pleased with how it has turned out. No one in my family will notice this,but it is satisfying to me . I might have to look at these pyjamas on a person in the future, and I have saved myself pattern  misalignment annoyance that would irk me later on.

I'm hoping to use the last weekend before Christmas to make myself a new dress to wear at Christmas lunch. It will need to be quite roomy.....

Travel clothes 3. South Island New Zealand

Hooker Lake Walk, Mt Cook National Park
The rest of the family needed some additions to their travel wardrobes too.

Leggings BurdaStyle 01-2011-130, made from a rayon/lycra knit from Gorgeous Fabrics. This was sold as suitable for jeggings (which I think are psuedo super stretchy leggings with jeans type embroidery, being an interesting denim look fabric, but unfortunately was far too thin for this use. It worked nicely as leggings for travel, drying quickly, but the fabric was a bit too fragile for New Zealand scrub, and became rather full of snags and pulls after a week of hiking. I squeezed 3 pairs from 3 yards, so was rather pleased with the economy of the cutting out.

2 poly wicking t shirts adapted from BWOF 09-2008-143( I have to use up that polywicking stuff in the stash somehow) and polar fleece trousers adapted from BWOF1-2009-143 pyjama trousers. I used wicking poly knit for the trouser waistband and cuffs, which dried very quickly, particularly important for the cuffs which were subject to puddle abuse and creek crossings.
I did not think my son would really need polar fleece trousers, but my husband convinced me, and he was right. It snowed, quite unseasonably, in Milford Sound whilst we were there,which was very exciting, as my son had never seen snow before.
(yes, I know, hardly any snow at all, but we live in the subtropics)

I also made a poly wicking turtlenecks from BurdaStyle 09-2010-121 for my daughter.

This pattern had looked so hideous on me that I threw out the tracings, but my older daughter traced it out again for herself, and it suited her very nicely, and was very quick to sew. My younger daughter, who has a more similar figure to mine, found the turtleneck equally unflattering, and wore a previously made one from a Kwik Sew pattern. I have no photographs of the turtlenecks as they were worn under coats and jackets.
Lucky last, in fact, so last that I sewed the button on in the car on the way to the airport were a pair of seersucker cotton shorts for my older daughter.

BWOF 07-2009-113

I suspect that these are more suitable to the subtropics than New Zealand, but again they dried quickly, and were worn with the leggings for the warmer days.

Remnant creation nightie

Thank you for all the kind comments re my niece sewing. Yes, I do try to make something for all my nieces (some of whom technically belong to my husband) each Christmas. I had a sewing Auntie when I was young, and vividly remember the fabulous 80's wild print board shorts she sewed all the cousins each year. We loved them. She stopped sewing in the 90's for some inexplicable reason, but her recent acquisition of a grand-daughter (her son is the same age as me, and has a not quite 1 year old daughter, whilst I have a nearly 17 year old!) has started her sewing again, I wonder if she will join the internet sewing community)
Some of the niece sewing was from remnants. This made me feel very clever.
However, there were some colour requests. My first niece asked for purples/green/light blue. I had just bought some fabric that matched this description perfectly. The only problem was that I am a selfish Auntie, and had bought it for myself for a specific garment. Not only that, but it was from Spotlight, and was rather a skimpy width, which is their nasty habit for making the fabric look less expensive than it actually is per square metre.
Naturally, I had to cut out my project to see if there was any left over for my niece, and naturally, once I had cut it out to create a small remnant, it would have been incredibly annoying to have a cut out nightie lying around in my sewing space whilst I did all my planned Christmas gift sewing.
See what happened?

This is my favourite nightie pattern, from Burda 11-2009, about # 134, the fabric is cotton voile. I went to Spotlight a few weeks ago (a multi hour trek) as fellow Queenslanders Katherineh and Bernice both posted that they had found some very nice cotton prints from Spotlight recently, and this was a great tip, I bought about 25m of different prints in voiles, lawns - one even a Tana lawn, and slightly heavier weaves. (Kawana Waters, if anyone who is reading lives around here).
I felt delightfully self indulgent whilst I was sewing this. There is nothing like a bit of gift sewing to make you appreciate the gift of time used for yourself.

A gift sewing endurance event lap 1 Burda Style Magazine 11-2009-134

Mary Nanna wrote, in a glow of virtue I could see from here, that the theme at 1/11/11 was "not- for- me- November". Fortunately, she did not berate the sewing internet community with stern instructions to sew-a-long. However, this little aside raised some guilty feelings here (all self inflicted) as I too, feel that I should be sewing from my gift list instead of wallowing in new dress patterns for myself. You may notice that it is the 10th of November already, and so far there have two dresses and no present sewing. Oh well.

This is a birthday present for a friend. I gave her a piece of fabric for her birthday (silk charmeuse from Global Fabrics, Wellington), with little sketches of possible garments. Last week she gave it back, having picked out the camisole. (Burda Style 11-2009). This is my favourite sort of gift sewing, because a)it was my idea b) I got to pick the fabric and c) I was in charge of the pattern selection. I may just be a control freak.

The advantages of this pattern are that I have made it numerous times previously, and it is possible to make it adjustable, so one needs only a rough idea of the measurements of the recipient. The bust drawstring is intrinsic to the pattern, and the strap length is changeable.

I had not made it in silk charmeuse previously, but was quite keen to try it in this fabric. The charmeuse was rather wriggly. I used a walking foot with microtex needle, French seams, and hand stitched all the bias binding.
I used adjustable lingerie straps (Greenfield's, Sydney), and wound thread around the drawstring tube ends to keep them neat.



The camisole lower bodice is cut on the bias. I let it hang for 3 days, and the hem stretched far more than I had expected.
I am glad I did not just finish it off without hanging. I lined it up on the cutting mat grid and sliced off the excess with the rotary cutter.



I hope she likes it. I think is is more pretty in real life than in the photographs.
Next up we have mostly- niece- November, starting with a birthday dress due this weekend, which seemed like a good idea whilst I was making birthday dresses for her sisters in August - or maybe I will put a zip in my Liberty mumsy dress.

Costumes: RTW cop out and Burda Style 11-2009-143 variation

I quite like making costumes.There is nothing like a dress up party or book week for making the seamstress mother feel quite superior. There are also no indications for couture techniques on a costume.
However, when I was walking past a dress shop on my way to the bank on Friday, a RTW dress on the pavement sale rack caught my eye.
Does this dress look like a ballet costume to you?
My daughter has a solo in her concert.(She will not be wearing her black wool school uniform tights for the ballet concert) She threatened to model this with hiking boots when I asked her if she could put on her ballet tights for the photo, so I thought it better to just be grateful for the modelling despite the incongruous tights.

The dress was $35, and far too big, but I could not buy the 9m of tulle in the 3 layer skirt for $35 locally, let alone the other fabric.
I added shirring elastic to the back, rather haphazardly, reminding myself that this was a costume when I thought about unpicking, and added ribbon straps for the exercitations of dance and the slender bosom of the dancer.

Inside view of shirring.

I did not have the right colour ribbon, so added decorative machine stitches to the ribbon using thread that matched the dress.
She is quite pleased with it. Although I usually loathe and avoid alterations, I am glad I did not try making it from scratch.
Next up, was book week at the primary school. Due to the retirement of a wonderful teacher, who used to run every fun thing at school, my childrens' school has not celebrated book week for 5 years, putting rather a dampner on my costume sewing showing off. Last week, the newsletter finally announced that a book week parade would be re-introduced, and the requirement was to dress as a character from another country. Naturally I assumed that this character would be from a book. I quizzed my son "Which character will you be ?" He said, "a farmer from Mulan, Mulan is from China and I have a sword from China". I pointed out that Mulan was a Disney movie, and suggested that he dress as a character from the Dragon Keeper series, set in ancient China, which we have just finished reading together. My son was quite exasperated. "If I dress as a book character, no one in my class will know who I am!". Obviously, I am out of touch with book week.
Here is our Chinese farmer turned Mulan's soldier.

Apparently a weapon is a requirement for dress ups if you are an 8 year old boy. I am not sure that Chinese soldiers wear farmers' hats. I strongly suspect that the costume is merely a background excuse to take a bamboo sword to school.
I suppose this makes a change from magic wands.
The pattern is Burda style 11-2009-143, boys' pyjamas, with the gathering cuffs left off, the top lengthened and turned into a wrap top. The trousers are cut down from a pair of mine -the fabric is a sort of polyester hessian that kept coming apart at the seams (I bound them for the costume). The top is a vaguely Asian print polyester woven, given to me by my grandmother about 20 years ago. You never know when these things will come in handy.
The hat is a gift from his aunt to his sister, from Vietnam, and the sword is a gift from his uncle, from China. Nicely international, and quite inauthentic.

Bell Bottomed Jeans Burda Style 2009-11-125, version #2

My younger daughter is thrilled with the response to her jeans. She is claiming to have started a trend (thanks Joy) and to be very fashionable. I unkindly pointed out to her that using a 2009 pattern probably meant that she was not quite on the cutting edge of fashion, but this did not seem to have much effect on her euphoria. I thought sewing euphoria only worked for the seamstress, but it seems to have a wider effect than I suspected. I am pleased to join Joy's sew-a-long, as I have already finished! (The only way I can finish on time at the moment seems to be by starting early)
The flattering cut of the jeans did inspire a request for a pair from daughter the first. As seems to be the case lately, this was a last minute, rushed job. She left for a visit to her grandparents on Thursday night, and I started them on Tuesday night, after finishing daughter the second's pair after work on Monday night so that she could wear them to her friend's house on Tuesday. I am getting good at this mid-week sewing! I am using this as an excuse for the dodgy hem photo you will see later in the post.



To respond to justlikeaboughtone this is how I sew a lot. My only sewing "secret" is that I sew all-the-time and instead of doing other things (including some where my decision to sew instead of doing them is not necessarily the correct decision). Also, I am now in the fortunate position of having a sewing room, where I can leave a project in the middle, with all the pins in and the scissors on the table, as my children are past the dangerous objects up high stage. Not having to put things away saves a lot of time.

(Daughter the first did wag a "spare" at school so that we could measure for the hem - don't tell. I said in the note to school that she had to keep an appointment, just didn't mention the with me bit)



The pocket stitching is from her design, and were much more tricky to sew than her sister's. Can you tell she takes Graphics?

As she was not permitted to try on her sister's jeans, I had her try on the calico toile, which was a little tight in places. Completely forgetting my last post, where I whined about denim stretching, I carefully adjusted for the tight places, so now both girls have slightly too large jeans. Fortunately they do not care. I also lengthened the toile by about 7cm, for the longer legs, but mysteriously, then had to remove about 3cm in hemming. This may have been measurement error, or possibly my addition of back crotch length after adjusting for leg length. The hemming issue has reduced the volume of the bell a little, but the trousers still have a pleasing shape.



Despite the enthusiasm for this pattern in the comments on the last post, when I looked at patternreview last week, it had not yet been reviewed. As Audrey points out, this pattern is from one of the Take1-Make4 articles. There is one review of the straight pair, #124, but I thought I would detail my design and construction changes to the pattern here as I may not get around to writing a review for a few days. They fit the girls pretty much like other Burda patterns, so the fitting adjustments were not unusual. They may be slightly longer than standard Burda trousers.



1. POCKETS
Instead of patch pockets with a buttoning flap at the front, and in-seam side pockets, I chose to use more traditional jean style pockets. The back pockets are from Jalie jeans 968, and the front pockets were drawn free hand on the toile, and checked for position and hand access at this point. The inner pocket part is quilting cotton, but I left the visible, under part of the pocket as denim, as there is a front stay pocket extension.
When constructing the pockets, I stitched in the ditch of the front leg central seam to further attach the stay and to prevent pocket bulge.
2. TABS
For the first pair,in the last post, I reduced the length of the tabs at my daughter's request. I also only used 3 tabs, as one was wonky, and I was feeling lazy. The bottom of the tabs have a decorative button attached, which required pliers to pull the needle through 5 layers of denim and 2 of quilting cotton ( the inner waistband and the underneath of the tabs are made from a cotton print in my version, to reduce bulk)
In this second pair, I used 5 tabs at the pattern length, to hold a belt better at the back, and have not yet got around to sewing the buttons on the tabs. (time constraint problem mentioned above)
3. GODETS and TOPSTITCHING
I did not agree with Burda's instructions here. I wanted the point of the godet to lie flat, so pressed the leg and the godet seams to the leg (opening the leg seam, but pressing the godet seam to the outside.



This allowed me to topstitch differently from Burda.

Burda's trousers have an asymmetry at the top of the godet. I prefer symmetry. When topstitching, I stitched along each side of the leg seam first, then topstitched inside the godet seams, stitching across the top and crossing over the first part of the stitching to form 2 triangles. I am quite pleased with how this turned out, particularly for these godets at the back in a variegated thread, where somehow the hot pink has managed to hit at the top for both legs.

Sewing luck! This of course is entirely due to my precision sewing. (smirk)
I have enjoyed making these jeans, and am slightly sorry that they are not in the house at present, as I had vague thoughts of squeezing in to them to see if they would suit me too. Maybe this is why I made them a bit big. However, as my daughters have long slim legs, and mine are quite the opposite, (they take after their Dad) I strongly suspect that I will have to enjoy these vicariously.
I am looking forward to seeing other versions in the sew-a-long.

Bell bottom jeans Burda Style 11-2009-125

My younger daughter has been clamouring for jeans for at least 6 months. I did try sending her to the shops, but she would not play - she wanted bell bottomed jeans, and picked out the pattern from Burda 11-2009-125. These are not actually jeans, merely denim trousers, but this did not deter her.



Despite appearances, I did make a toile, and fitting changes, prior to construction of these trousers. The fitting changes were 1. Shorten trousers by 12 cm. 2. Narrow side seams from about mid thigh to the knee (those are 13 year old legs under those baggy trousers). I also used the toile to make a pattern for the jeans style front pocket, where Burda has a buttoning patch pocket instead. There is no back pocket on the Burda trousers. I borrowed the pockets from Jalie 968 for a more jeans-ish look.
I was quite happy with the trousers when they were first finished. I like the shape of the trousers, most of the topstitching ( done on my vintage Singer, size 100needle, with purple YSI topstitching thread - completely ignoring the off centre Burda instructions), the gentle godets and the cute pretend-button-on belt tabs.
I had not used the Singer for topstitching before. It makes a lovely even straight stitch, and purrs through multiple layers of denim, but unfortunately I found it difficult to use at the waistband, and over the button tabs - I am too reliant on a transparent foot, the automatic up/down needle feature, and the edge foot on my modern machine. I am not showing you a close up of the waistband topstitching because it is desperately wonky. Hopefully, use of the Singer will improve my technique on future garments.


(this photograph is intended to draw attention to the bell bottoms, with purple topstitching, my daughter's favourite feature)

Unfortunately, I failed to allow for the stretchiness of even non stretch denim. I am not prepared to fix the fit after all the topstitching. These trousers were worn all Monday evening (hot from the sewing machine)and by the photographs at crack of dawn on Tuesday, are rather looser than originally intended.


Fortunately for me, women usually gain 50% of total adult body weight during adolescence, so these may fit a little better next year. I did suggest that they be tried on by the older sister, but daughter the younger refused to take them off.

These, she says, are her own, one-of-a-kind designer jeans (she claims total designer credit due to her pocket and topstitching requests). I felt smug.

Now to prepare for the sister fight clothing disparity and variety discussion when I make a pair for daughter the first anyway.

BurdaStyle 11-2009-143 boy's pyjamas

On my list of burdensome fabric, this one was very highly ranked. About 2 years ago my mother's friend gave me woven and knit camo prints, and some green ribbing that she had bought to make clothes for her son as a pre-teen. He is now about 20years old. I am glad I am not the only one with an aging stash! This fabric had instant appeal for my children, and my poor-sewing neglected son has been gently reminding me for about 12 months that he wants me to sew him something else from this fabric (He has grown out of his woven fabric camo trousers).
Finally I made him some pyjamas. These are from Burda Style 11-2009-143, which is the pattern for both parts of the pyjamas.



My son has the width measurements for size 110 (5 years) and the height measurements for size 128 (8 years). The pattern did not have lines for size 110, so I used the width of the size 116, and the length of the size 128, thinking that pyjamas could afford to be a bit loose. As these are long sleeved pyjamas, even though made of t-shirt weight fabric, he will probably not be wearing them for a few months yet, so has a chance to fatten up a little.

The pattern calls for a satin star applique. Not having any satin to hand, other than some luscious purple that was rejected as "too girly". I used a sturdy cotton flannel for the applique. I think this will stand up better to washing than satin anyway.



The pattern has a drawstring with elastic inside the ribbing waistband of the pyjama pants. It calls for metal eyelets for the drawstring, but thinking of both potential scratchiness and my trepidation regarding applying eyelets to super stretchy ribbing, I chose to use tiny buttonholes instead. This was a particularly good call, as somehow in a moment of inattention I applied the waistband inside out, and the eyelets right next to the skin would not be terribly comfortable, whereas now I can pretend that this is a deliberately designed concealed drawstring. You can see that I used a scrap of the knit for the drawstring. I hope this does not pull apart with use, but I could not find any matching tape.


My son is extremely pleased with his pyjamas, although complaining mildly that they are rather baggy (I think this means he is growing out of all his other clothes and that they are too tight). This made me feel quite guilty about not sewing for him more often. However, he was scowling ferociously in all the photographs.

Here he is just looking as if the applique has dubious girly tendencies.

I assured him that it was very manly.
Big boy sewing is nearly as boring as man sewing. I am off to sew something frilly.

Nightie BurdaStyle 11-2009-134

My purple phase has not run out yet. Whilst sorting out mysterious fabric piles in order to move into my sewing room, where there are about to be cabinets (exciting hand made present from my husband), I came across a silk satin fabric remnant, that I bought last January at Gardams, Indooropilly. It cost $30. I know this because the label was stapled firmly to the top of the piece, leaving marks. :(. This was a truly serendipitous find, because not only were the sewing machine and overlocker already set up with purple thread, but the silk satin is exactly the same shade as the silk-cotton batiste I was sewing with yesterday.
This allowed me to squeeze a nightie out of a scant 90cm of the silk satin.
I used BurdaStyle 11-2009-134, of which I have made many versions, with a few tweaks. First I did not cut the skirt on the bias, not having enough fabric. Second, I sewed a strip of the batiste to the hem of the skirt, to make it more nightie and less camisole.

I used a 3 thread rolled hem on the overlocker for this seam, having just read this technique in an old Australian Stitches magazine (vol #15 issue#9 - this is what I do when sorting out my sewing stuff, read old magazines instead of tidying...)

It turned out really well, with no visible seam allowance through the sheer batiste. I think this fabric shortage prompted feature looks planned, and am feeling rather clever in consequence. I have left the selvage as the hem, as the batiste is pre washed, and the selvage has not shrunk at all. My other fiddling designing
idea was to use the bias strip finishing the armscye as the central loop of a bow.I have been lining the bodice of all the other nightie/camisoles from this pattern, but did not do so for this version, just turned over the top to make a casing as is described in the pattern. I used the 3 thread rolled hem to finish all the edge seams before sewing, other than the vertical seams, for which I used French seams.
This is very luxurious. I have not used silk satin for lingerie previously, but am now thinking it is worthwhile.
I did not find any more summer weight purple fabric, so will have to change colours for my next project. It is my last day of holidays tomorrow, so I have big sewing plans.

Lady Grey: Fitting the sleeve, and distractions Burda 11-2009-134

Next up, the sleeve. In my first toile, the sleeve fit was truly terrible. Fortunately adjusting the shoulder a little more improved the situation, but my immediate reaction to the sleeve in its merely lengthened (10cm), sleeve cap heightened (1.5cm), rotated (2.5cm) and slightly tapered form, was that I had a bit more work to do.

I pinned out a lot of the sleeve width, and made some more alterations - following instructions in Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques book. I took about 2cm off the back curve, and let out the sleeve head by another 1 cm.

I then cut up the sleeve, made a new pattern, and was perplexed to find that the sleeve seemed to be rotating peculiarly from about the biceps.

Fortunately, I had only unpicked this version and re-drafted the sleeve before I realized that I had cleverly sewn in version 3 backwards, and when redrawn according to version 2, and sewn in the right way, version #3B was not too bad, so long as I only looked at the bit above the elbow.



Leaving the question of whether or not to include elbow darts for another day, when I am feeling stronger, I undertook a little light relief.

See, I can sew. Almost instant new pyjamas for a sleepover at Grandma's.
The pattern is from Burda Style 11-2009.

I have used the same top as last years pyjamas, lengthened (#134), but the shorts are a longer version, #132. I feel better now.

Burda Style 11-2009-133

Every so often, Burda has translation troubles. This garment is not a camisole, whatever Burda thinks. 11-2009-133

Initially, this was intended to be a nightdress, as I am still on my pyjama addiction, but once I had made it in a dark printed voile from Spotlight (2007 - remnant from sarong)and modeled it for my family, it was pronounced a housedress. I think it is the subtropical verion of lounge wear. You could wear it to bed, but you are just as likely to wear it around the house, although you should probably not wear it to the supermarket.
This was so quick and easy, that I made another one.

Both of these housedresses are lined in the bodice with a solid fabric - purple cotton voile for the blue print, and cream silk/cotton voile for the brown and white print, so as to prevent pattern blur where the lining shows through the lightweight fabric.
I cut the skirts on the bias, just like it told me to in the pattern, and even doing this, I managed rolled hems. I pat myself on the back a few times for this.
However, I was due for a downfall.
I cut out a nightdress from crinkle silk chiffon. I found this a very tricky to manage.
I self lined the bodice, and made french seams throughout. I hand sewed the casing at the top of the bodice, as I didn't think I could manage buttonholes in silk chiffon, and applied lingerie elastic lace at the empire waist seam just as the pattern suggested. It looked absolutely hideous. Elastic at the empire waist gave a terrible droopy bust look to the garment, and the crinkle chiffon skirt hung like a dish rag. This was most disappointing after all that handsewing. I could not just throw this project in the bin though, as the fabric was a gift from my husband, and I have been rather slow in sewing it up, as he bought it for me in January 2009.
I chopped the nightdress back to camisole length, and tried my rolled hem foot again. Nothing doing, crinkle silk chiffon does not like the rolled hem, or the presser foot. The bobbin case on my Janome is now sparkling clean. Silk chiffon makes a fabulous cleaning rag.
Crinkle silk chiffon wants to be hand sewn. I ignored this and after chopping off some mangled almost hem, added a wide lace border, pieced from my scrap box. It is attached with zig zag stitch.
The remainder of the nightie turned into li ngerie shorts. I was not happy with the invisible fabric (my son's description), so made a liner pair of shorts from cotton/silk voile. The hem is my overlocker's rolled hem, with the crinkles stretched out to make a lettuce hem. I like this better than hand sewing crinkle silk chiffon.

I am over pyjamas again.