Today I attached wool wadding sleeve headers to the eased and attached sleeves, according to the instructions in the book "Sewing Jackets the easy way". Whilst taking a break from working on the jacket, I read a patten review by Annette1 on pattern review, where she describes a one step process for easing the sleeve and applying the sleeve header. I may try this next time, as it looks easier than the two step process I used. The sleeve does sit better with the header, but there was a definite ridge line at the edge of the header, so I pinked the wadding at this edge.
The next step was the shoulder pads. I did consider making a shoulder pad to cover the whole shoulder, and cut out some wadding for this as shown in the photograph, but I looked a bit like an 80's leftover when trying out this extra wadding, so reverted to my commercial 13mm shoulder pad. I did attach a layer of silk organza to the upper front bodice, between the garment and the shoulder pad, in the same placement as the hair canvas described in the Armani Threads article, as when I tried this, the front of the jacket sat better. All of this area was hand sewn, and a slow process.
I then sewed the outside seams of the jacket and lining per the pattern instructions. In the photograph, only this outer seam and the collar have been pressed. When I lightened the photograph, it looks puckered at the front sleeve, but this is not very noticable in real light, and I am not worried about it, as I have not yet steamed the shoulder seams. I will steam the collar over a rolled tea towel to improve the shape, and still need to hand sew the neck seams of the lining and garment together. I plan to also sew the waist seam in this manner, and need to hand sew the remaining hem. I hope to finish the jacket by tomorrow evening, as I am now behind schedule in both SWAPs.
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