NL6945

I am writing a bit more about this blouse, as I made a number of changes to the pattern. The base pattern is NL6945, version c. The pattern is for a fully lined blouse, and I subsituted a neck facing for the lining. The fabric used is a stretch woven cotton spandex in cream. I cannot remember the source of the fabric, I have had it in my stash for several years. I first made the pattern about 2 years ago, before I started reviewing patterns on pattern review, and I had forgotten most of my thoughts about the pattern, and had only a few scribbled notes on the pattern envelope - "higher neckline, take in about 3cm centre back and front".
I made a size 12, with the neckline made slightly more square, and raised 2cm. I cut out the pattern to the original tissue, as I thought pintucking the front and back would take up the extra 3cm I found last time. Unfortuately I did not read on the pattern tissue that there is 6 inches of ease. I took in the side seams and darts quite a bit to reduce this ease, and probably should have cut a smaller size in the first place.
I pintucked 11 tucks on each side of the centre front, and 21 in the centre back. I was a little worried that the stretch fabric would be hard to tuck, but it worked very well. I used a 7 groove pintucking foot and a twin needle. I also pin tucked 9 tucks in the centre of each sleeve. Unfortunately the tucking took up much less fabric than I had anticipated. I improved the fit by making another 25 or so tucks at the back (they are centred, the photo is a bit crooked) and by removing the untucked portion on the front that had been intended for the buttons and buttonholes. I substitued a strip of elastic loops inserted in the R centre front facing seam, and a 5mm space on the L for shank pearlescent buttons. I was happy with this effect. I also inserted 5cm wide placket to the R centre facing seam to stop any skin exposure at the front with this alternative fastening. This is attached at the top neckline with a clear snap fastener.