Sunday, 24 August 2008

Jalie 968 jeans for me revisited.

First I would like to thank Liana for leaving me a link in the comments to a much better sounding elastic waistband method than the Threads version I tried earlier this week. I almost made a pair of these this afternoon, I was so tempted by this link, but somehow developed some fortitude and went back to my disastrous Jalie 968 jeans.
Jeans do not suit me, and I do not like wearing them, but later this week, I am working at a charity event for 4 days, where the dress code for "officials" is a red boxy polo shirt given ordered for the event(I plan to adjust these later) and denim jeans, so I have to wear them. In previous years I have bought cheap nasty jeans from Big W, that do not fit,then thrown them away after the event, as despite Vicki and Brmm leaving me some possible sources for good jeans in Australia, my pants resistant figure remains highly difficult to put into this type of garment.

I have lightened these photographs a lot to show the wrinkles, as, although these are as well fitting as I can get them, and remarkably comfortable, there are still lots of problems. (All the nice topstitching was done with Robin's terrific jeans twinstitching needle, all the other topstitching is all my own fault)
I expect the jeans to be a bit wrinkly at the crotch, but am not at all happy with the inner leg seam. It twists to the front all along the leg, and the inner side seam ends up almost in the front of the foot.




I am not sure why this happens. I know there is plenty of room at the back of the thigh and in the calf. If I pull the back thigh fabric in, the twist improves, but then I cannot sit down in the jeans.
I have taken these jeans in a lot at the side seams. You can see that I can no longer use the front pockets as the opening is so small.
I am wondering if pants fitting is a bit like top fitting. In tops, I use a small size to fit my shoulders, then increase for my bust. I am wondering if the hip measurement I frequently read about - measure the widest part of your hips even if it is actually below your hips (eg booty or thighs) and use this to pick the pattern, is right for me. I think with my next attempt, I will use my actual hip measurement, across the bony pelvis, then enlarge for the necessary areas. Unfortunately I do need another pair of jeans by Thursday. Wish me luck!
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Nosila said...

I had a very similar wrinkle pointing to the back of my knee. Turns out, I have calf extension. It means that when you turn sideways, your calf sticks out further at the back. I had to make the back of the jeans leg bigger than the front to make the side seam straight. But I also think you have crotch issues but I don't know what they are!!!

Linda said...

Here is my take, which you should take with a grain of salt! LOL. And forgive me for being brutally honest in what I see and feel free to delete the comment after you read it. Your muscular thighs are screaming for more room. To me the diagonal lines on the side shot point to the front thighs. The back crotch is too tight. You have a definite wedgy thing going on in the back. Your back crotch seam disappears into you. You can alter that so one can see the back seam all the way down and still have a pretty tight fitting pair of jeans. You can give yourself a little bit more back rear room at the lower crotch inseam and these would still be a tight pair of fitted jeans. If you give yourself more seat room, it will also help to get a little bit more room for the front thigh too. Probably not enough to make all the side draglines go away, but I would do alter the back crotch seam before I do anything for the thighs. I do recall seeing something about how to fit front muscular thighs, but where escapes me at the moment. If I find it, I'll pass it on to you.

I already left a comment on SG about the leg twist thing. But after seeing the close up photos, your problem may not have been at the layout stage, but how you took them in. If you are only taking them in at the sides, it will not work in the leg. The leg needs to be taken in equally from both sides. Conventional wisdom always tells us that the back leg is wider than the front, but I think in the case of a muscular front thigh this is not a rule that you need to adhere to. But possibly taking it in along the sides is aggravating the grainline and throwing it off balance.

Of course we are seeing what you have done after your alterations and not a comparison photo of what the jeans fit like before you took them in. So for me, it is a little hard. But hopefully this information will give you some food for thought.

classicalreader said...

Hi Karen, I came to see the side and back views!

The seam twist thing I know not of. Good luck.

You need the front thigh alteration -- Els at sewing divas posted a link, and Linda is right, the crotch needs to be lowered.

I applaud your willingness to go back to these.