Thursday, 31 January 2013

3 looks, one pattern, Ottobre 05-2010-01 t shirt

I don't sew much from Ottobre, but so far, nearly everything I have made from this magazine has been a great basic. In theory, I appreciate the use of women of many ages, who are also non-standard shape models for clothing in Ottobre . However, in reality, this means I find the pattern less immediately appealing when considering clothing for myself or my teenage daughters. I am conditioned by advertising ideals more than I would like to think!



 I liked the yoke on this t shirt, which is shown with 2 long sleeve variations, number 1 "Nora" and number 4 "Renee". Neither garment uses contrast fabric for the yoke, but to me the pattern cried out for colour blocking, with, of course some stashbusting scraps for the yoke ;) However, I did not actually have any stashbusting scraps for the yoke, so I had to make some other t shirts first in order to have scraps. This makes sense to me, but I understand if this is not universally evident as a sensible approach.

Keeping to the January stashbusting small scrap theme, I started with the t shirt on the far left, which does not look as if I used any scraps at all. This is due to the complete failure of the cotton-lycra knit Peter Pan collar I drafted (from scraps) and applied to the t shirt ( made from the Nora pattern with the  front yoke added back in to the pattern).  The collar was ripply and soggy looking, so I cut it off, then added an extra wide self fabric neckband , which despite  having a severely angled seam at its short end, managed to stand out at the upper neck.
I decided that a marvelous design feature for this neckline would be a little judicious gathering with a ribbon. The ribbon dates from the newborn phase of my son, now 10 years old, when I thought I might make him a cutsie sailor suit. He is probably glad I did not get around to this.


The ribbon is sewn wrong sides together, for robustness, and so that both sides show the pattern, and threaded through small slits made in one layer of the neckline. It looks very cute and nautical with the red denim shorts but you will have to take my word for it as the recipient is a bit too busy to stand around having photos taken.

Next I made the t shirt pretty much to the Nora pattern, now that I had some white scraps ;). However, I added a back yoke, using the back facing pattern piece, as I felt it would look better with the contrast continuing over the shoulder.


In construction I added elastic to the upper neck seamline, so that it would lay flat when worn, and coverstitched the lower yoke seam and the hems in white for more embellishment.
I was pretty pleased with the t shirt, but feel that it doesn't look very different from wearing 2 t shirts over each other, which would have been easier to sew, so I probably won't use the yoke effect again in plain colours - maybe in lace it would be more interesting.

Having some enthusiasm restored by the success of t shirt number 2, I returned to my collar plan. This collar is made from quilting cotton (given to me by my mother in law and made into a dress for daughter the first in 1998, quite a venerable scrap), and seriously interfaced with Pro-woven crisp shirt interfacing - so no rippling.
I had some trouble due to my poor drafting skills - having made a collar too small to slip over the head!, so made a gappy and buttoning design feature at the back which looks quite cute IMO -my daughter thought it was deliberate and cool, so I have her fooled nicely.


I took some trouble with the neckline. I wanted the inside to stay inside, look neatly finished, but not be too bulky.
I used fold over elastic to finish the inside, sewing it in two passes, then folding under the seam allowance and topstitching with a narrow 3 step zig-zag stitch.



I thought it looked quite good, but I finished the gap in the back with a little of the t shirt fabric in a regular binding, as the elastic alone looked a bit flimsy here.


Scrapbusting - one collar sized piece of quilting cotton, 15+ years old, and about 1.5m of 10 year old ribbon. Stashbusting about 2m of cotton lycra knit which I actually buy by the roll due to high use and turnover and do not need to stashbust . Verdict - no appreciable stash denting.


Giggles said...

I do really like great basics and I think the black and white one is my favourite.

I absolutely loved the line: no appreciable stash denting.

With everything I've created I keep looking back at the pile and I can't really see a difference. I suppose that just underlines the fact that stashbusting is the way to go for this year :-)

Sharon said...

Cute tops and it is a great way to use up the stash and understand the way you need to create to get the scraps.

Can you enter these into the One Pattern Many Looks on PR?

fabric epiphanies said...

Great stag busting. I don't know about you, but I feel quite self satisfied when I use something that has been around for ar too long!

pdiddly said...

I know exactly what you mean about the models in the magazine - this puts me off too, but whenever I see things made up from this magazine they are always lovely -love all your tops.

Sigrid said...

Lovely variations on one pattern. And yes, I feel the same about the magazine, the photos put me off and then I see things made up by others and like the patterns.

Karin said...

The colour blocking is a great idea. I have this issue, but haven't sewn anything from it. Shame on me!

Gail said...

I really like the black and white top too. I like this pattern but haven't traced it off yet.

velosewer said...

Sounds like your fabric stash is significant. At least this is a long initiative so hopefully you'll make a dent soon.

Summer Flies said...

Oh you have done well! I particularly love the two without the collars and especially the white contrast one and on the contrary I think it looks SO much better than a t-shirt over another.

Bernice said...

Cute tees. I imagine they'd all look great with red denim shorts. Loving the sailor theme.

Carol said...

I've never even seen an Ottobre magazine, but I like the sound of them. Whilst you may not have made much of a dent in the stash, I do believe you get extra points for using up stuff with serious age. 10 year old ribbon and 15 year old quilting cotton is impressive. I feel particularly saintly when I use bits this old because I think that when you've had fabric that long it ceases to become fabric that can be made into something and somehow becomes a possession in its own right, if that makes any sense. I tend to skip over the old stuff without seeing it, so I think you've done well. Shame we don't see the model in her red shorts, it sounds like a lovely outfit.

liza jane said...

I really, really want to sew something from an Ottobre magazine. Everything I see people make from their patterns looks like a great basic but with room for personalization. Just like your tees. Love them all.

Carolyn said...

I think you are doing a sterling job of stash busting.. such pretty tops; brava!! Those ancient little scraps might take up much physical room but I reckon they are a big mental burden... too small for anything much + too precious to throw away = they live in the stash FOREVER.
I'm intensely curious to see some Ottobre models now... ;)

Ruth said...

Now, those are classy.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

What a great set of tops--I like how they coordinate.

"Verdict - no appreciable stash denting." How well I relate to this! But eventually it all adds up, right? Right???

Joy said...

These are such pretty tops. I'm not aware of having seen anyone else make the "Nora" shirt, although it's appealed to me since I saw in the magazine.

Nice work on small piece stashbusting. I tend to think those are the most difficult to use up.