I don't sew much from Ottobre, but so far, nearly everything I have made from this magazine has been a great basic. In theory, I appreciate the use of women of many ages, who are also non-standard shape models for clothing in Ottobre . However, in reality, this means I find the pattern less immediately appealing when considering clothing for myself or my teenage daughters. I am conditioned by advertising ideals more than I would like to think!
I liked the yoke on this t shirt, which is shown with 2 long sleeve variations, number 1 "Nora" and number 4 "Renee". Neither garment uses contrast fabric for the yoke, but to me the pattern cried out for colour blocking, with, of course some stashbusting scraps for the yoke ;)
However, I did not actually have any stashbusting scraps for the yoke, so I had to make some other t shirts first in order to have scraps. This makes sense to me, but I understand if this is not universally evident as a sensible approach.
Keeping to the January stashbusting small scrap theme, I started with the t shirt on the far left, which does not look as if I used any scraps at all. This is due to the complete failure of the cotton-lycra knit Peter Pan collar I drafted (from scraps) and applied to the t shirt ( made from the Nora pattern with the front yoke added back in to the pattern). The collar was ripply and soggy looking, so I cut it off, then added an extra wide self fabric neckband , which despite having a severely angled seam at its short end, managed to stand out at the upper neck.
I decided that a marvelous design feature for this neckline would be a little judicious gathering with a ribbon. The ribbon dates from the newborn phase of my son, now 10 years old, when I thought I might make him a cutsie sailor suit. He is probably glad I did not get around to this.
The ribbon is sewn wrong sides together, for robustness, and so that both sides show the pattern, and threaded through small slits made in one layer of the neckline. It looks very cute and nautical with the red denim shorts but you will have to take my word for it as the recipient is a bit too busy to stand around having photos taken.
Next I made the t shirt pretty much to the Nora pattern, now that I had some white scraps ;). However, I added a back yoke, using the back facing pattern piece, as I felt it would look better with the contrast continuing over the shoulder.
In construction I added elastic to the upper neck seamline, so that it would lay flat when worn, and coverstitched the lower yoke seam and the hems in white for more embellishment.
I was pretty pleased with the t shirt, but feel that it doesn't look very different from wearing 2 t shirts over each other, which would have been easier to sew, so I probably won't use the yoke effect again in plain colours - maybe in lace it would be more interesting.
Having some enthusiasm restored by the success of t shirt number 2, I returned to my collar plan. This collar is made from quilting cotton (given to me by my mother in law and made into a dress for daughter the first in 1998, quite a venerable scrap), and seriously interfaced with Pro-woven crisp shirt interfacing - so no rippling.
I had some trouble due to my poor drafting skills - having made a collar too small to slip over the head!, so made a gappy and buttoning design feature at the back which looks quite cute IMO -my daughter thought it was deliberate and cool, so I have her fooled nicely.
I took some trouble with the neckline. I wanted the inside to stay inside, look neatly finished, but not be too bulky.
I used fold over elastic to finish the inside, sewing it in two passes, then folding under the seam allowance and topstitching with a narrow 3 step zig-zag stitch.
I thought it looked quite good, but I finished the gap in the back with a little of the t shirt fabric in a regular binding, as the elastic alone looked a bit flimsy here.
Scrapbusting - one collar sized piece of quilting cotton, 15+ years old, and about 1.5m of 10 year old ribbon. Stashbusting about 2m of cotton lycra knit which I actually buy by the roll due to high use and turnover and do not need to stashbust . Verdict - no appreciable stash denting.