Monday, 26 May 2014

Burda Style 02-2009-120 tunic blouse.

Thank you for the encouraging comments about Project Formal. Unfortunately, I cannot indulge myself with constant evening dress sewing, and have returned to the everyday sewing with my efforts over the weekend.
I am so grateful for sew-a-longs. I have the greatest difficulty in motivating myself to make clothes for work, because my work is not the place for sartorial self expression, and I have to wear trousers. Urgh.
The Fabulous Dr E has a seasonal sew a long of 6 pieces hosted at Stitchers Guild, just perfect for a work wardrobe update.These useful pieces are deadly dull, but will get a lot of wear. I am making 2 pairs of trousers, 3 blouses and a very easy knit fabric cardigan top. Hopefully these will all co-ordinate.

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First up is a pattern I haven't tried before, the tunic blouse from February 2009 Burda Style, 120.

technical drawing from http://www.burdafashion.com
 A particularly pleasant aspect about using these older Burdas (aside from my natural tendency to sew clothing that is 5 years or so out of date) is that the pattern sheets have only half the number of patterns on them as the current issues, so they are really easy to trace.
It looks terribly casual in the photo above, but the intention is to wear it tucked in, this untucked photo is to demonstrate the length of the tunic (longer length B). The fabric is from deep stash, pre 2008 Martin & Savage Fabric, from the days when I was experimenting with allegedly breathable polyester woven fabrics for work wear (heavily pushed by Australian Stitches Magazine at the time). This will definitely be a winter only blouse - the weave is soft and loose, and the fabric is quite fine, but my previous experience with this type of fabric is that it is quite warm to wear if you live in the subtropics.
The blouse was nicely drafted, and not tricky to sew, having gathers rather than darts. I did not have to do a FBA, yay, but made my usual square shoulder adjustment, large arm adjustment and also removed 2cm from the shoulder seams as, unusually for me with Burda, the shoulders were too wide. It has gathers at the back too, making it very practical for reaching forward.

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In an attempt to workify this casual looking blouse, I used a shirting fabric for contrast inner placket, inner collar stand and cuffs + binding.

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 I offset the cuffs so the stripe shows as a border.
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Burda is somewhat terse with the front placket instructions, and the two previous reviewers of this pattern both mentioned this as a difficulty, so I took photographs of this section of the construction.

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Cut front opening to within 1cm of the marked line, sew each placket to the front, stopping at the end of the line- ensure sides match.

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Cut diagonally into the corners at the base of the front opening (you can sew across between the two vertical seam allowances for reinforcement)

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Turn plackets to the inside, laying one over the other, turn seam allowance at base of placket to the inside, making sure the outside of the placket is straight - pin in place

Finish insides of long edges (I handstitched)

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Secure seam allowance of bottom edge to plackets (I handstitched)
Finish short edges of placket (I handstitched)
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Sew across short edge on the inside, ensuring that seam is straight and that there is no gap where the seam meets the long edge seams

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Turn out and topstitch as desired. Make buttonholes and attach buttons after collar stand is finished.

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Blouse tucked in for work.

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6pac so far
I will report on the trousers later.


 Stashbusting statistics - 1.5m woven polyester - pre 2008. Alas, there is a sizeable piece remaining.


8 comments:

Sue said...

Love the blouse - the gathers are pretty and feminine and the placket pulls it up from the ordinary. Thanks for the placket show & tell - very helpful.

BeaJay said...

That is a lovely blouse. Looks like the fabric is soft and it hangs beautifully. You have done a fab job. Loving the contrast on the neck and cuff. I haven't got any of the Burda magazines and often feel pattern envy when I see a nice one. Your top is gorgeous.

fabric epiphanies said...

The blouse looks lovely and it goes great with the pants!

Sharon said...

Lovely blouse and like your cheeky show of striped fabric at the cuff.

Sew, Jean Margaret said...

You've done a great job on this blouse. Thanks for sharing pictures of the placket construction too. Love the contrasting fabric and it looks so flattering tucked into your pants.

Summer Flies said...

That looks a great basic tunic pattern and I see it with some lovely voile! A good basic for work too.

velosewer said...

That is certainly not a dreadfully dull blouse.
It's simply wonderful.
Thank you also for the placket tute. I hope my attempt is near to your standard:)

Gail said...

Beautiful blouse. I thank you for the details on how to sew the front button placket. This is something I struggle with.