Sunday, 8 June 2014

Burda World of Fashion 01-2008-107 Bib front blouse

I've grit my teeth and am sticking to my work clothes plan. I rather like the trousers (considering that they are well, trousers), they've done their duty well at work, but photos are lacking, so I shall post about the blouse of multiple fabrics instead.


In my typical very - poor - use - of- time in an attempt to be thrifty, I was determined to make some sort of garment from a shirting remnant (man shirt), and thinking of the fabric squeezing possibilities inherent in a blouse with 8 pieces in the front, actually had a workable arrangement for this rather interesting take on a business shirt, Burda Style 01-2008-107.

technical drawing from
 I've made this before (with the collar from 108) using different stripe directions for the front and find the effect quite pleasing. (The FBA method and other alterations I used for this garment are shown at the post about the previous blouse )
Naturally, I needed a little help from another fabric to get a whole blouse from my remnant, but as I often make contrast collar stand, cuffs and plackets, for work shirts, I didn't see this as a problem

Unfortunately, in an unusual burst of enthusiasm for cutting out (usually I make one garment before starting the next one), I was cutting out blouse the first from my 6pac at the same time, and surprisingly having a largish rectangle of my striped shirting cotton left over, I cut out cuffs and collar stand for my cream blouse and patted myself on the back for using up every last piece of the remnant.
I'm sure you can fortell the next stage of this story.
Yes, I had only cut out one of the upper side pieces. This was cut in a single layer, so as to have the stripes in opposite directions for the 2 sides. When I carefully went through casually checked the pieces of the shirt, pinned to their pattern, prior to cutting out my extra cuffs, I failed to notice that there was a singleton.
The partially completed bodice lay around on my sewing table for a few days looking at me mockingly.
I wasn't keen to use the same fabric as the collar and cuffs, this being a bit strong in contrast, but having 3 fabrics in the blouse was making me think that the blouse would read "weekend cheerful and colourful patchwork" rather than "professional with a touch of whimsy".

Eventually, I went with a solid off-white, in a cotton herringbone twill (shirt weight), which has enough of a stripe effect to give me the directional variation I was after.

It is not a disaster, but I'm not sure if I like it as much as my original plan, there is something rather noticeable about it for a work blouse.


My other design changes to the pattern  were to offset the cuffs again, for a line of contrast from the right side, to add more buttons to the front fastening for gaposis resistance, and also an inverted pleat at the back, sewn down at the top and waist, to ensure room for arm movement with minimal untucking.Instead of the complex half chesterfield front with an added tab, (which was fun, looks good but used a lot of fabric and required fiddling) I have used the most simple form of sewn on placket - a long strip folded over, with self fabric as interfacing. I have used a David Page Coffin sleeve placket pattern and instructions from Shirtmaking.


Seams are flatfelled, for garment longevity and inside tidiness to be visible when the sleeves are rolled up, and I have used flat buttons on the cuffs instead of the shank ones at the front, to reduce catching.
It should be very practical and useful, and there is another blouse from the same pattern cut out and ready to go.

Unfortunately I have a sudden urge to sew chiffon and ruffles.

Scrapbusting statistics about 1.3 m of shirting remannt (Global Fabrics, Wellington 2011), and a few cm of 2 other cottons - herringbone twill from Michael's fabrics and unremembered location  for the floral.


Summer Flies said...

Ooh I like it. What a nice pattern. I like the white on the front. I can see that pattern is one where the fabric makes it look different every time. And lets face it, non sewers wouldn't notice.

fabric epiphanies said...

I like the contrast as well! I am sure it will slot in nicely with your work wardrobe.

Janine said...

Phew lucky save but looks entirely intentional. Anyway another lovely shirt which I hope does get worn to work.

SewRuthie said...

What a lovely blouse. I know its not quite what you planned but it does look fabulous! I am doing mending and alterations and feel for you, really I do.

Judith said...

Looks lovely with the mix of fabrics ... J

Melinda said...

I'm another who really likes the finished shirt. I know for myself, I sometimes dislike something I've made simply because it doesn't look like it did in my mind. I'm disappointed and that translates to not liking the garment even though it's really quite nice - just not what I'd envisaged.

sewing spots said...

Love it! I especially love the cuffs with the floral fabric peeping out.

I guess if you aren't happy with the solid white area you could consider adding lines of decorative stitching to make it look more like the stripe? That might add to the whimsical yet professional look. Might be tough to achieve in a finished garment! Never mind:)

BeaJay said...

Fantastic shirt and I think it is perfect as a work shirt. Love the contrasting fabric and the touches of plain at the sides. Very nicely done.

Sew, Jean Margaret said...

Beautiful mix of fabrics. Very thrifty and creative of you too. Great result.

Uta said...

I love the effect of the different fabric patterns and think it is very nice for work, unless you work in an extremely formal environment (navy suits, white shirts, not much else). I'm in awe of your shirtmaking skills as always. I do have the Shirtmaking book, maybe I should go tuck it under my pillow ;-) !

Lynn Barnes said...

I like the plain side panels! You are looking at it with Eyes of Disappointment in Yourself, so you need to stop doing that. To make the last-minute fabric substitution seem more intentional (and less grasping for straws) you could echo the florals from the collar stand and sleeve placket with either stenciling or embroidery on the plain panels. That might seem more finished-looking to the E. of D. in Y. Although I still think you will come to love this blouse more and more in the wearing of it.

Mary said...

I've been studying "Shirtmaking" by David Coffin, and I so appreciate your work here. It's a lovely blouse and I like the contrast.

Sue said...

A good save on the shirt to find another fabric and I think the lines of the shirt are really interesting.

becki-c said...

Your color blocking is so modern and stylish. You really refreshed and updated this pattern.
I have this issue, it is fabulous from front to back. Thanks for reminding me to pull it out again.

Sharon said...

This is a lovely blouse and I think a lot of people will not notice the contrast. The chiffon and ruffles will come soon enough with your daughters dress!